Tauer Perfumes
20160427s

last minute preparations

April 27th, 2016

Sorry for not talking too much lately. I was busy filling the tauer factory with stock of some goods before I leave for the US for a trip that will bring me to Chicago (Q Brothers), LA, SF (Tigerlily) and back to LA again for events. In LA I will be attending the Awards ceremony of the Institute of Art and Olfaction. So cool! So the last few days were pretty busy.

The trip is one I am actually looking very much forward too. It is a long time since I was in Chicago. And coming back to San Francisco, even when only for a day, is always great. And LA is cool anyhow.

It will be a tauer perfumes week, that’s for sure. Hence, today’s picture. The Tauer Perfumes tin box.

When back from the trip, it will be time to plant out the tomato seedlings (if they survived) and a couple of other plants that I grew from seeds successfully so far. And I will have to start producing perfumed goods for the upcoming holidays, the X-mas holidays. I ordered a lot of stuff and when back from the US, my tauer perfumes factory will start filling. That’s the plan. What will happen… well, you never know what you gonna get.

 

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20160422s

clean zones

April 22nd, 2016

Spring greetings from Zurich, using a photo that I took yesterday in the factory. I found the flower (dandelion) when taking a break, on the road, picked and forgotten. So I took the flower up to the factory room and fooled around with the phone and fruitchouli flash. Doing so, I realized again how important pictures are. A take home message for every day.

I have a couple of ideas there and I would love to start using a picture world for Tauerville that goes beyond what I have done so far. Tauerville, well…, it’s a place where I can go a bit wild and try new ideas, working on cliches, serving them, too (if I feel like it) or swim to shores that are new to me. Maybe, in that context, we will see “sex on the beach, eau de toilette” in tauerville one fine day with a picture world that will bring in the facebook censor. This censor comes in actually pretty fast.

I was born and raised in the sixties, am a boy of the seventies and a man of the eighties. And, maybe hard to get for folks that are in their twenties and thirties: I am amazed how prude and Victorian “we” got in some areas. There’s a lot of super clean zone out there, and this in a context of an oversexed society. Kind of odd and amazing. In perfumery: The same. Everybody seems to want the “beast” but reaches out for iso E and buys clean.

Anyhow, I have a thing with pictures and could spend hours just looking at them. I find pictures very inspiring, too. Often, I see a picture and there ‘s somehow a direct line to my perfume formula cubic centimeter area in my brain that says: Ah… another perfume!

This morning, I watched a bird, quite early in the morning, a “turdus merula”, common blackbird, picking what it could find to build its nest. It is probably the same common blackbird that destroyed twice so far my urban farming pea efforts, by hysterically digging out what I sowed and nourished for weeks. Do I hate it for that? Yes. I am fantasizing about turdus merula grilled to perfection. Think: Appetizer. Do I love the picture of it picking stalks and dry grass, flying to a going to be nest with a spout full of stuff and returning after a minute or two? Yes.

A bird building a nest is a wonderful picture, and having to sacrifice some pea seedlings is an adequate price to pay.

What’s next: I will spend some 10 minutes on 123rf.com, looking at pictures.

 

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20160421s

blingblingville

April 21st, 2016

The other day, I read a post on Looking Feeling Smelling Great, a facebook group of and for perfume lovers, about fake perfumes that enter the markets.

The issue is an issue and more and more we see cheapies entering the market. Some of the cheap, heavily discounted fragrances are the real thing, some are fake.

The real thing: Some discounted luxury fragrant goods get into the western discount markets at a lower price than what the retailer buys for. How come? These are often goods coming back from markets such as the middle eastern markets or Russian markets where the goods did not sell. The discounter there can still sell with a small profit to a discount retailer in the west. This is called the grey market, where high end goods enter on dubious ways on the shelves. In the end, it of course makes you wonder why you paid 250$ a while ago when you can get the same now for 50$.

The fake ones: Faking goods only makes sense if the value of the goods is out of proportion compared to the production costs. See Vuiton handbags or Adidas shoes. Production costs are minimal. The price you pay is for the brand name, the blingbling factor. In the world of perfumes, it is the same. Some perfume goods are easier to fake; if a brand uses a standard bottle: Super easy.

Anyhow: When I read the comments, I was puzzled. Puzzled because I realized that still today some perfume lovers think that because a product costs 250 or more $ it MUST be expensive to make, contains expensive raw materials etc. etc.

Beyond a certain level, pricing is a marketing decision and has little to do with ingredients. You can bottle 15% pure rose absolute or Sandalwood from Mysore at 15% (edp) into a great flacon, pack it and decorate it and the production costs and distribution factors and middle men etc do not justify the prices we see in haute perfumery (expensive niche).

But back to the fake and grey market issues. I could have sold hundreds (thousands) of bottles in the mean time to middle east markets. No month without a query from a distributor from the region. I do not sell there, except for Saudi Arabia where I am working closely with a retailer that I trust. I am maybe a bit too suspicious, but still….

Why did I not sell, although I could have made an easy $?

Because I do not want my products to end on a grey market.

The same is true for tauerville. No blingblingville.

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20160419s

Tauer Perfumes made it to Australia or: Lonesome Hopper

April 19th, 2016

Yes!

I am so happy and proud: Tauer  Perfumes are now available on the continent down under at Men’s Biz. To celebrate this, which is the result of a couple of months work and discussions and analysis, I created a little kangaroo on paper that is out of proportion but looks cute.

It looks cute BECAUSE it is out of proportion, with the head too large and the eyes too large, it fits the juvenile features of cuteness.
Here’s the same picture but a touch larger.

Tauer in Australia.

Tauer in Australia.

That’s the happy news of today. And if you are interested: Here’s a fragrantica summary by Liam Sardea (a really nice article that I loved a lot) where he speaks about the challenges of niche in Australia and a bit more, like me shipping stuff and me considering doing a lonesome hopper. Enjoy!

And yes, as a commenter mentioned on Fragrantica: They, the kangaroos, rarely come alone, thus no lonesome hopper.

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20160414s

Mark the date: Tauer’s coming to Chicago

April 14th, 2016

Yes, I will visit Q-Brothers in Chicago and they were so nice to organize a meet Andy event:
Saturday April 30, from 1-4 pm

And look what great poster they did for their shop window! By the way: Q Brothers (4716 N Lincoln Ave) is in a lovely area that I visited about 4 years ago and it is one of the best places for niche, there in the windy city that was never windy when I was visiting. That’s why I am there, at Q Brothers, with my products. It is worth a visit even when Andy is not there.

Other highlights today: Building more stock of Le Maroc pour elle. Stretch goal: Label 500 bottles and (midterm) pack them. And this morning, when watching the dark sky at 5.30 am and looking at the first pink haze on the sky and thinking Le Maroc, I said to myself: one fine day I need to correct this (and others) mistake. What mistake?

Well, the name of the perfume is wrong. Le Maroc is fine, but pour elle is wrong. It is actually also pour lui, at least for some. And it says “eau de parfum”, but actually it is so intense and rich and concentrated that it could and maybe should be sold as “extrait de parfum”, the way it is formulated. And at the very end, it should be priced much higher; that’s what my bookkeeper told me the other day, signing a rose absolute bill. Here’s a hint: Le Maroc is of orange, almost red color because of what’s in there; not artificial coloring, it is the absolutes of rose and jasmine that give the color.

By the way: Jasmine abs. is limited by Ifra (0.7% ) and the Jasmin absolute ( grandiflorum from Egypt) concentration in Le Maroc pour elle is just about there. And yes, it is a bit crazy, this perfume.

 

 

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20160412s

cruelty free

April 12th, 2016

The other day, I was on a perfume shopping site, offering scents with cruelty free musk. And, as I got an email the same day where a consumer asked me whether my scents are “cruelty free”, I figured it is time for a post.

Of course, all my fragrances that I sell are cruelty free, meaning not tested on animals, not using animal derived products. It is the law in Europe that cosmetics are not tested on animals; the history of this ban of animal testing for cosmetics in Europe is shown in the picture (larger version here).

So… that’s one part of the story. The cosmetic product is not animal tested. Good. But, individual ingredients are tested for toxicity.
Linalool, a common ingredient in perfumes and a major component found in Lavender essential oil, for instance, has been extensively tested and following this link, you may find out that the LD50 of Linalool is 2.79 gr/kg body weight for rats. This means that 50% of all animals in a test died when given 2.79 gr /kg body weight.

I am not an expert, but you safely assume that most chemicals and many essential oils are/were at some point tested on animals.

Rose essential oil for instance has an LD50 (oral) of 2.98 gr/kg body weight (http://www.dweckdata.com/).

And in that sense, there is a lot of cruelty.

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lifestyle zone

April 7th, 2016

I was answering interview questions for a lifestyle blog the other day. Details will follow when the interview goes life. And, like most of us, I think I am an interesting topic and love to talk about myself. That was the easy part. But, as it is a lifestyle blog and as blogs tend to work with pictures, I was asked for pictures to accompany the feature. I was looking down on me and tried to figure out what style I have.

Realizing that my style is blue jeans and a white T-shirt I got into troubles. A sales rep in one of the many jeans stores in NY trying to talk  me into buying a jeans came up with the flattering comment “classical”. Having a classical style is for sure way better than normal. Let’s face it: Who wants to be normal?

So I was looking down my normal style and tried to come up with a visual that turns a normal style into a classical context. Today’s picture shows you the result. I put my jeans and a white T-shirt onto a painting that I did of LA, looking south-east from the hills over Griffith Park, where I go jogging when in Hollywood. The picture is nice. The colors of the jeans with the label fit with the blue sky softened by cirrostratus clouds and the orange dusty horizon.

Totally happy with the result I continued taking pictures of objects that I own and that are part of my style, putting them onto various paintings. Bike helmet, sneakers and what I found in my backpack. I wonder whether the lifestyle blog will publish them. I was happy: Narcis has found a new mirror.  I was also amazed about what came out of my backpack. I guess what a woman’s handbag is a man’s backpack. I found perfume vials in all possible pockets. One trial dilution that I have been searching for, and had to re-dilute because I did not found the vial, reappeared from the big dark abyss, aka backpack.

There was some time yesterday, while drawing Greek statues in the drawing class which is incredibly difficult, to continue thinking about lifestyle and how important the image of the person is that stands for a brand. In this industry the normal guys are rare. It is comparable to fashion. And, maybe, like haute couture is essentially dead,  high perfumery is essentially dead. And there’s a reason for this and that. And: For whatever reason, consumers want a share of the glamour that designers, billionaires and other important people come with. Unfortunately, we life in a world deprived of glamour. And if the brand owners (or better: representants) are not rich or given this extra dose of beauty, or if they think whatever they represent is not enough, some brand owners wallow in “art” and creative contexts, and do crazy things just to be not normal, sometimes with snakes sometimes without.

And it works.

I have decided that it is time to get a snake. One that fits into my backpack.

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20160406s

failed

April 6th, 2016

Today’s picture shows you a complete failure before it failed. It is anecdotal but a nice example of failing because of trying too hard.

I had to gift wrap a booklet and decided to do a special thing: I wrapped it in thick drawing paper and sketched a rose with a soft pencil (giving high contrast) on the parcel and then bind it all together with some golden ribbon. So far so good and convincing. Then I had the idea to add one of these plush toy animals that you can use as key ring. So far so good and it looked superb.

Then I put it into a bag, onto the bike and I rode the bike for an hour. When unpacking and handing it over, I realized that lovely plush toy animal got a dirty black-grey back and the drawing lost a lot of the graphite, looked totally smeared and almost abstract because the stupid bird was moving forth and back over my drawing with its back while being transported by bike.

Failure.

Because of too much.

This is also totally true for ads, for promoting products on facebook, for instance, where being too loud and present can go totally wrong.
Or it is true for mixing perfumes. Too much is quite often just too much and bad.
Unfortunately, these lessons go forgotten by Andy Tauer regularly.

Bottomline: Before gift wrapping with a pencil drawing, fix it with a fixation spray.

On a positive note: When doing the sketch, I was figuring that it would be a nice X-mas “thing” to get wrapping paper with my drawings on. For private or business use. To be considered….

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20160405s

stretch goals

April 5th, 2016

Today’s picture: My pink little tulips are about to start blooming on the veranda/garden. It all started with a few bulbs and every year the patch of pink tulips gets larger. Nice! Like all early tulips they do not last long but I have different varieties of tulips in the garden, with varying time to bloom, thus there’s always a tulip in bloom for the next couple of weeks. Nice!

This week’s stretch goal of Andy: Building stock, and not much else. Thus, no tulip perfume experiments. Although, to be honest, I was never particularly intrigued by the scent of tulips. Too delicate, too… wimpy. I rather go for hyacinths. Bold and spicy and so heavy that bees fall off the sky when passing by.

But what I’ll do (and did the past few days): I am wearing trials in the factory, when not filling bottles or samples. Trials that need a couple of hours on the skin before I can make my mind up. For a couple of days because mostly a trial fragrance smells different one day and the other. And there is nothing better than skin to test them. Having said that: Ironically I do not think that I have the perfect skin to test scents. May that’s why most of my creations are pretty long lasting.

 

 

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20160404s

greetings from Switzerland

April 4th, 2016

I published today’s picture (a Swiss cow) already on Sunday in the social media, wishing a nice Sunday. But, as it fits perfectly, I use it again here, wishing you a lovely week.

A Swiss guy sending a cow picture over is quite clichées. I do not know how Switzerland managed to get this cow image, as there are tons of cows in Austria, too, or France. Or Denmark. Anyhow: Here is an interesting observation of mine….I am actually not a Swiss brand, or better said: I am a Swiss brand that does not plays with the “swissness” and is not recognized as Swiss brand by many. Actually, some think I am an US brand.

By the way: it tells you something about what I do these days when I am talking like “I am a brand”.

The brand is me and the other way round, and the brand is what I do with it, but my swissness hardly ever plays a role. But you know what: Serving this clichée is really, really not what I want to do. No Heidi perfume from Andy. And no air des montagnes suisses.

These days, I have to make a couple of decisions for autumn and the holiday season (x-mas 2016) and -for reasons totally unclear to me- I am totally undecided and kind of push the decision making forward and away. Maybe it has to do with spring exploding here in Zurich, with tulips starting to bloom, and me not wanting to think about Christmas. Not now.

 

 

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