Tauer Perfumes
20140822s

pipette guiding the way, and more gardenia…

August 22nd, 2014

So I told you: It is a gardenia week. Yesterday, after my aquarell class that is unacademic but highly educative, no school environment, but inspiring  in a way that I am in heaven there, after this class I got home and my mail box blinked with happy news. So there we go: The first reviews of the Gardenia sotto la luna are out and I am very flattered, and share them here.Wonderful news, indeed.

Riding a crescent moon, by the scented hound.

I am gardenia when I am wearing this, on Fragrance Daily.

this time the first gardenia fragrance that I have ever really liked and would wear, which for a gardenia-hater like me is quite extraordinary, on Fragrance Daily.
(disclaimer: all reviews are based on samples that the reviewers bought or got through an external source. I have not shipped out samples to the press yet, with one exception)

During the aquarell class hours, I had my ipad in the backpack and forgot to turn the sound off. It fetches mails automatically and makes “bing” when a new mail reaches me or rather: it. I got immune to the “bing” and try not to notice. “somebody got a lot of work when this class is over”, the teacher said.

Back home, I did not open the ipad, but finished the one picture that I sketched with a graphite thing before during class. No pencil, but a thick rough graphite mine. The main lesson for me during class: get of of the details closet. I was giving a brush, 1/4 the size of the picture’s height. We were also recommended to draw a couple of little pictures, postcard size. So we are learning to let the brush take over, to let go, to leave the controlled area and get into uncharted territory of a brain full of ideas. Sort of.

Here’s the funny thing:  when it comes to perfumes, I learned this lesson. I let it flow, a lot, sometimes, it just happens. How much, I realized yesterday. For a particular reason I had to check the gardenia excel sheet where I wrote down all the different trials of the formula. YES: Tons of trials! I was looking into it and realized that something is happening in there that is beyond my event horizon. It is the pipette guiding the way.

Picture today: An old scan of gardenia in bloom, colored in soft yellow tones that I think match perfectly.

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20140820s

more gardenia

August 20th, 2014

So there we go: I have been working for a while on a gardenia scent soap, for my “perfume in a soap” series of fragrant soaps that I do not sell normally, but offer as treat for friends and fans. Like … in draws. The picture shows you the result sitting in the factory on the shelf, taken yesterday. 100 gr. of plush gardenia.

I haven’t totally decided what to do with it, or how to use it. It goes together with a piece of paper that ‘s going to sit on the blue “think about wall” in the factory, saying: “USING OFFERS ON FACEBOOK”. In the end, I can do draws, or add it complementary to full bottle purchases or offer it as treat for anything else: that’s a marketing decision, basically. And boring for you , probably.

So let’s talk about plush gardenia, the perfume in a soap. When pouring the glycerine soap yesterday, it was like “WOW!”.. .total gardenia overdose. I made a prototype a couple of months ago. You know: I needed to test the scent and it’s performance in soap. Does it bloom? Does it last? How’s the jasmine concrète doing with some other ingredients (natural extract of J. grandiflorum, produced basically to isolate the absolute. Due to the high wax percentage in concrètes, they are perfect for soaps. I got mine from Egypt) ?

Basically, I composed a scent for the soap, making sure to only use ingredients that survive the alkaline environment. I mixed it and poured 100 gr of a prototype soap, round and still sitting in the house. (Actually, I did so a couple of times as not every scent trial was performing as expected) Then, I let the soap sit for a month and started using it. It is an intense perfume experience. Think: Super luxurious. Quite amazing, actually. The fragrance contains 12 ingredients, one being the above mentioned jasmine concrète. There are two molecules that make up a small part of the gardenia HEADSPACE in the soap perfume, too. These are hexenyl tiglate and methyl benzoate. A very small percentage of the overall mixture consists of these, but they are super important. Other key ingredients: Salicylates (thing: Powdery), lactones (think white flower creaminess), and some other ingredients that provide lift, and add floral volume.

For a soap: Quite a complex fragrance. While packing the soap, I wonder how this fragrance would actually do in ethanol. When making the next batch, I have to try this, too. Although, with Sotto la luna Gardenia, I have enough gardenia for the moment. I packed 49 of these. Ok, … I ruined some packaging envelopes. 1 is not packed. It will sit in our bathroom.

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20140819s

scribbling

August 19th, 2014

today’s picture is in real life a few cm wide, meaning it is small. The pen on the side was used to scribble it. I did so the other day when sitting together with my insurance guy, with the talking going from what can happen in life to all of us and what and how I have insurance to cover it. Like the insurance for the goods that we have in stock, or what happens if I break my arm or worse. So yes, the meeting was important, and my scribbling does not reflect that really.

I often do quick sketches, laying out a big plan in a little sketch. Like for the gardenia, when working on it, a formula getting more and more complex, asking for clarifications. Actually, the gardenia is very complex, and the complexity makes it more than “just” a white flower. Of course, I say so in order to invite everybody to give it a try, even if you feel uncomfortable with white flowers. Never ever give up: There might be a white flower out there for you that you can fall in love with.

Ah, and yes, this is true for him and her.

But back to the scribbling. When I looked at it this morning, thinking about a picture going with this post, I remembered that since days I want to start putting pieces of paper on my wall in the factory. The one wall that I look at when packing or when filling bottles. I will be there soon, and have to hurry up as I am still behind the computer answering mails and doing other stuff.

I want an empty piece of paper there, or several, on the blue wall. For ideas. Like: I  have an idea, I write it down there (or sketch a visual representation) and it will remind me every day.

And I want pieces of papers there that remind me of the bigger plan. Like: In ten years from now, I want to be there. Where? That’s the question.

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20140818-1s

more on poetry. To give notes or not to give.

August 18th, 2014

Today’s picture shows you a  boxed gardenia fragrance sitting on a quick watercolor sketch that I did yesterday. It did not work out (the watercolor). But I did two rose illustrations that both worked well and that made me happy. So, yes, there was time yesterday to do a lot, to jog, to paint, to answer mails.

20140818-3s

Water color illustration of a rose, by Andy Tauer

Here’s the first rose.

And here’s the second.

Another rose illustration, by Andy Tauer, watercolor

Another rose illustration, by Andy Tauer, watercolor

Talking about roses: “rose” is one of the very few specific notes that I indicate for the Gardenia. Other notes mentioned: vanilla, tonka, sandalwood, jasmine. But, for instance, I do not tell what “spices” you find in the fragrance head notes. Why not? There are individual spices in the top notes, of course, but telling there is -just to name one that might be in there or not- cinnamon gives the wrong direction. The fragrance top notes are not about cinnamon. It is a chorus of spices, complementing fresh floral elements.

Hard to explain really.

You need to try.

And I think you might want to forget what you know about gardenia, or no: better said… you might want to get ready to explore details, facets of gardenia that you have not explored yet.

Actually a lot of my perfume loving friends do so right now, and I am busy packing sample orders.

Thank you for that.

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20140815

Liquid poetry. Gardenia from Sotto la luna.

August 15th, 2014

My Gardenia is finally online. Samples ship today, full bottles are available with shipment early September.

Hurray!

And I love it. Enjoy and have a great Friday!

I sure do.

“Sotto la luna” means under the moon. I see the solitude of flowers, blooming under a bright moon, secluded from the busy day world under the sun. It is a world that is secluded, private in a sense. The world is sleeping. The busy human world has come to a rest. Flower pods open, alluring the creatures of the night. I see flowers blooming in the light of a celestial body that does not shine itself, but reflects the sun. It is a reminder of the day, a gentle light pouring down from a cold round rock in a frozen galaxy. The moonlight feels like a luminescent fluid poured over a shadow land. The shadows are long and dark.

I see this moment of beauty in an universe that is endless space, expanding into nothingness, indifferent. I see this glimpse of beauty resisting the vortex into nothingness, standing against the blind titans that push our universe.

Sotto la luna is joyful and sentimental at the same time.

With Gardenia as first fragrance in this line, I wanted to capture these images.

 

When working on the gardenia fragrance, I bought a plant and smelled the flowers, observing their development, realizing how beautifully complex this natural perfume is. When sitting next to my gardenia plant, smelling, making notes, I learned that the gardenia fragrance is different every day. Its notes are the most beautiful during the night, with notes of fresh spices, of roasted coffee beans, of mushrooms in wet moss, creamy sweetness of jasmine, narcotic beauty and the gentle perfume of rose buds, with vibrant woods and balsamic sweetness.

Thus, my gardenia perfume flowers out with a spicy freshness, it matures into a round, gentle green floral perfume reminiscent of a hundred different flowers, it closes with powdery mosses and a creamy floral woodiness that disappears into the night.

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20140814s

room for new stuff

August 14th, 2014

Today’s picture shows you an ad in front of the local apothecary, that sells perfumes and other stuff, saying “We need room for new stuff: Scents 50% off!”.

Quite honest and typical for the situation these days. The (niche) perfume market is marked these days by an abundance of products and a consumer in retreat.

I was watching “into the wild” yesterday and, having read the book years ago, I was a bit disappointed. But still, the message was there. Before watching the movie, there was time to get annoyed about the storm we faced yesterday, gusty winds, breaking branches of bushes in flowers and shaking trees full of fruits, to the point where the fruits fell off and are wasp food now. It was a bit sad to see the damage, although the damage was very limited as the storm was not too heavy.

Before going to bed, it all fell together. Mother nature is not nice, and we humans are in a constant fight with forces of nature. We shield ourselves by living in houses, cities, by inventing energy slaves, like machines and cars, that protect and nourish us. We build islands of comfort in a hostile environment. And although human beings don’t life peaceful together, not all the time, the network of humans organized in complex structures is our answer to natures storms and indifference. Yet, our society works  like nature. You have storms ravaging through economies and societies and only the strong branches will survive.

In perfumery it means: What is not selling, will fall off the shelves.

Before the storm, I prepared my website for tomorrow, when I -together with many of my retailing partners- will start offering samples of the Gardenia from Sotto la luna. Full size product will be on pre-sales, but as always, I recommend to never ever buy un-sniffed. So there you go: Another scent on the shelves. It will have to proof itself. Perfumery is a business like every business: You have to sell, to compete, to thrive to be better, nicer, bigger, faster. And it is like no other business, with products that can be more than what the eye sees and the nose tells.

So there we go; happy we are, and anxious, and in a certain way indifferent. There is not much that I can do right now anymore. The product is uploaded with pictures in the online shop and I only have to turn the switch from “disabled” to “enabled”.  The Gardenia has to find its place and proof itself.

And I have to come up with the newsletter, probably over the weekend.

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moon2014small

super luna

August 12th, 2014

Today’s picture shows you the contrary of what we have seen yesterday and will see next month again: A super full moon. That’s what we have seen. And the picture shows you a mini moon, the photo been taken around 10 am, while cycling in the Danube valley. The moon is the little dot in the upper fifth, in the middle. The picture is modified with added contrast and lowered brightness.

So there we go: We had a super full moon in August. (here’s the link to an article explaining what a super moon actually is). And we will have a super full moon again. September 9. And although I am not entirely convinced about any influence of the moon on human beings, I am sure that it has a big influence on perfume launches. Launching a perfume during a supermoon is great. But launching a fragrance from a line called Sotto la luna in the night of a super full moon: That’s about as good as it gets. And the full moon will have a very positive influence on the fragrance’s success and its appreciation. For sure.

So there we go: Gardenia launch party at Les Senteurs in London, September 9 2014. Reservations and details: Click here. This link brings you to a page where you can get a glimpse of the flacon and an illustration that I did. Andy’s gardenia under a super full moon. It just can’t get better.

Have a great day!

 

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20140811-s

Monday, monday

August 11th, 2014

Today is Monday, but this Monday is special: I get another blue flacons delivery, at some point today, by truck, and am so looking forward to filling up the big empty spots in the “factory”, where I store my building blocks to produce perfumes. Another building block that is low in stock: the bakelite tops. Bakelite, as production material, comes with the advantage of low numbers. It is a plastic, the first plastic that this world has seen, really, a thermosetting polymer, and low number means that you do not need to order 100’000 pieces. As production is pretty slow (each piece is compressed at elevated temperatures, for a couple of seconds) , you can order 5000 pieces of a customized piece (customized by a mould) and the price is ok.

Anyhow: I am getting bottles delivered, tops later this week, I have boxes, pumps and labels and (more or less) juice and am happy. It makes me definitely more happy to see bottles than numbers on my bank account statement. At least, the bottles are there. The money in the banks: Well, well…. you never know with money and banks.

And you never know with truck drivers. Thus, I got up very early this Monday (after 5 am), to get done what needs to be done, before heading down the hill into the factory.

There, I won’t be bored as I just got another large retailer order. And have a couple of ideas to work on. I will take my painting stuff with me, too. After yesterday’s rose exercise (see today’s picture), I am ready for another watercolor rose. And: You never know with these truck drivers.

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roseflash1s

end of week

August 8th, 2014

Happy Friday!

That was quite a week! Like… super busy here. Now, I just finished preparing the last shipment papers for retailers shipments that will leave the factory this afternoon. And then, then we go back to normal. Normal means: Working on the Gardenia launch, enjoying the thrill, and playing with raw materials (again): While cycling, I was composing scents and playing with fragrant lines in my heads. It is about time that they find a place in my excel list of formulas.

Today’s picture is a watercolor illustration that I did yesterday, waiting for the postman to bring me the shipper’s declarations for the dangerous goods shipments. There was not a lot of time, and hence it was a quick illustration. Quick means: No time to work on details. It was an interesting experience, as I sort of let the brush go, find its own way and the result pleases me. Two colors, flowing into each other, one motiv, a rose, popping out of the background. I used a different paper for this illustration , a paper that I have not used yet and it really made a difference. I guess, it makes a bigger difference than the quality of the brush used. I was thinking about the picture before painting it, for about 4 days, and wanted to try out a couple of things.

I feel like I will visit the motiv again, trying to work in the same technique. Thus, I consider this a first trial. Lessons learned here: First, it is worth thinking about a painting before doing it. Second, paper makes a difference. Third, let the brush lead you. Not the other way round.

I called the painting rose flash. version 1. For a particular reason.

And now: Have a great Friday, everyone.

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20140806s

chinese way

August 6th, 2014

Here we are busy fulfilling orders and shipping stuff. Yesterday, a happy day actually, I prepared the boxes for my warehouse in the US that serves my US clients, through shipwire, an order fulfillment company. The do the shipping of full bottles in the US for me, as I cannot directly ship full bottles due to air freight restrictions here in Switzerland.

Today’s picture shows you where I get my packaging material from (Brieger), and how I transported it (bike) as it was sort of a  last minute order: The Chinese way, so to say.

What goes into the shipwire warehouse: Gardenia, Sotto la luna! Hurray. Mid August, I will start selling samples and will accept orders for full size product and early September these Gardenia bottles will ship. Here’s how I pack them.

Packed Gardenia, with THANKS! label

Packed Gardenia, with THANKS! label

The barcode on the picture is for shipwire, on the outer packaging. I helps them to keep track of what I ship.

All fine there. All products that I ship from now on come with a branded little sticker, saying THANKS! I figured that it will make a difference. An entry point into the brand.

There was not much time for painting, unfortunately, but once this week is over, it will cool down a bit. That’s the plan, at least. But today, I will bring some water colors into the factory. For my lunch break, if there is going to be a break.

 

 

 

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