Tauer Perfumes

Archive for July, 2010

blueflower

see you soon again

July 28th, 2010

and off we go for our little biking trip. I hope that my labtop will find a WLAN from time to time, allowing me to post a bit.  See you soon again!

grasshopper

hopping off

July 27th, 2010

before hopping onto the bike and biking down from lake Geneva to the Mediterranean: a few things need to get organized. Actually, it is a lot of last minute items that need to be fixed.

I remember  discussing lately how overrated holidays actually are. You spend a lot of time and stress out to get ready. While being somewhere else you constantly try to keep up with your e-mails because the (business) world of today does not allow to be off for two weeks, and when back home you have a pile of stuff that built up.

Nevertheless: I look forward to my bike and the sea on the horizon. Thus, before hopping off: let’s get this stuff done!

Ah… before I forget: Tauer was featured in this weeks German Brigitte. A nice clipping….ending in the sentence: “Das Leben hat wieder dafür gesorgt, dass alles genau passt” (in English:life took care once again that all fits together)

alpenrose

caramel

July 26th, 2010

Caramel alarm!

Yesterday, before spaghetti dinner and after boxing some air,  I wanted to get a  first trial on Linden blossom done, with the goal: create an homage, a fragrance that does justice to Linden blossom. You know: before I go for my biking trip. I sure need to repeat this experiment, as I fell into an old, actually well known trap, that lures nevertheless again and again. Ethylmaltol, Caramel sticking to everything, this is THE caramel molecule, and whenever you think just a hint of sweet powder, then you already added too much.

This stuff is sooooo powerful. Think angel dust, suffocating everything.

But as I was not pleased with the entire chord, I will redo it again, using my Linden blossom CO2 extract (I got the linden blossom from Ecomaat, in Bulgary) but this time more on the happy side with lots of citrus. .. hmm: Lemon zest. I guess…. . Maybe with a bit of rose, with lots of citronellol as it might add a lift to the rather rough and harsh linden blossom extract,  but not the Carbon dioxide extract, nor the Swiss Alp rose (see picture of today) but rather the absolute from Bulgary.

And I feel like pushing the amber and iris root button. But this will all happen on the side, as I need to get some stock ready before I hit the bike towards mid of this week.

flacon_inyellowlight

combat zone

July 24th, 2010

I could not resist: a flacon picture again. I took it yesterday, while pouring Eau d’épices into 214 flacons in my studio. Outside it was all rainy and grey, but the grey daylight was transformed into a golden beam, shining onto the flacons in quite a spectacular way. The only arrangement I had to do: Put the flacon in a way that allows reading the brand logo. Otherwise: No nothing and no photoshop (except for size reduction).

Today, I need to finish putting the o-ring on the naked necks and then we engage in pouring Rose chypree into the new flacon. While doing so: more time to fall into deep bottle pouring stasis and think about new scents, like COMBAT ZONE, SEX IN GRAUBÜNDEN, and other funny ideas that come up during the day or in the comments section on this blog. Actually, quite often the comments are more thrilling then the post. On combat zone: see yesterday’s comments; you know that there IS a Swiss army scent on the market? Yes, there is; actually, there are a few…..

Before I fall into stasis: Wishing you all a lovely weekend. Enjoy!

crimpinghead

Oriental carpet

July 23rd, 2010

After yesterday’s comments on folks biting nails and sweating in anticipation of scent No12-EAU D’ÉPICES (which will, by the way, hit the shelves in 50 ml flacons, as part of the CLASSICS line, after September), I feel sort of motivated to pour and crimp No. 12.  Yesterday, the spicy water got a filtration finish. Not much to filter, though!

There are fragrances that are a pain to filter. It is the resins like Tonka resin, or vanilla CO2 extracts, or concrètes like rose concrète that a trouble makers. Rose concrète is a good example: This is the stuff that you (they) produce by extracting rose petals with organic solvents. These organic solvents dissolve the aromatic molecules and a lot of natural waxes out from the rose petals. When the organic solvent is distilled off, the concrète, a waxy resinous mix is what you end with. This concrète can then be extracted with ethanol, leading to the absolute, leaving the waxes off, and some of the fragrant molecules. Hence, the concrète is sort of closer to the original than the absolute.And so is the CO2 extract. A concrète is heaven to smell, but hell to work with, except for soaps or solid perfumes or perfumes on oil base.  Actually, a rose soap with rose concrète would be soap heaven, for sure…

Anyhow: The scent No 12 is ready, sitting in its 12.5 liter can waiting to be pushed (I have a 10 liter manual liquid dispenser for that) into flacons. The picture, by the way, shows you a detail shot, looking from the bottom upwards – kind of a flacon perspective-  into the crimping mechanism of my manual flanging (crimping) tool. The little metal dents fix the pump onto the glass of the flacon. Overall: A wonderful, highly repetitive work. Perfect for a meditative day dream on an oriental carpet with lots and lots of spices.

carillonflacon

double whopper of draws

July 22nd, 2010

I am off for the last business meeting this week. We sit together with the IT gurus in order to discuss a few fixes and enhancements. And to be honest: I did a lot of IT projects with external partners, back then in my old job as IT manager, and I assure you: This project was going through smoothly and just fine. Square.ch is a highly recommended parter!

The rest of the day will see us preparing flacons and stocking up boxed perfumes.

And bit walk into perfume construction space, but before I can talk about this experimental walk, I need to check a few things and make sure all is fine there.  Sorry for being so secretive!   And finally, if you have not seen it yet, A DOUBLE WHOPPER OF DRAWS:

Your chance to win two Carillon pour un ange on Now Smell This -> click here

Your chance to win two Carillon pour un ange on Perfume Smelling Things -> click here and enjoy Tom’s review. Thank you, Tom, thank you so much!

helpinghand

ugly nacked neck

July 21st, 2010

Yesterday, I did another mix for 25 liters, pouring and weighing all ingredients together, warming some of  them in water bath first (like oak moss that is really sticky and hardly flows at room temperature). Over the next few lots and for some perfumes: part of this mixing will be outsourced, already is. The actual mixing is done by the company providing me with raw materials. It is less about the actual work, but more on the economy of stock keeping and managing space to store the raw materials.  Some perfumes, however, will remain in  my hands for a while…And while mixing yesterday, I learned again why this is. It is such a deep immersion into the world of scent. Imagine: You open the 250 ml aluminum bottle with rose absolute from Bulgary. You pour it into a big can, through a funnel and immerse your already soaked nose: Total rose candy, sweet honey, clove buds exploding, a shower of pink petals, sticky lemonade, and cat pee. Thus, I really enjoy this immersion and do not want to miss part of this work.

But it is a fact, and Vladimir mentioned it the other day, and I mentioned it to the W.-factor the other day: I have reached a point where I could not do all by myself anymore. I have become dependent on some helping hands. Two of these you see on the picture.

They put two black high durability rings over the pump (you see one of these rings  in right corner), after crimping, using the manual flanging machine that makes the pump stick to the flacon. This flanging leaves a little ugly naked crimped metal neck between flacon and pump head. The rings cover this aesthetic sensitive area. Just and only for aesthetic reasons. One day, I will need to make a “making of” video, showing all the little steps. And some helping hands….

blue_flacon_1

in need of a silicone enhancement

July 20th, 2010

I am in love, unconditional, with my new flacon. We get along very well, and even after days with dozens and dozens of bottles going through my hands while filling and crimping (=sticking the pump onto the flacon) and labeling, we still look at each other in the evening with a smile.

Compared to this relationship, my love for the cover top, the black colored wooden cube, is appreciation, but a bit less passionate. Its visual appearance is all fine. It pleases by its perfect shape, that is (almost) a perfect cube. It is nicely colored, all black and feels woody warm and smells great. But it has this inner life, featuring an o-ring, sitting in a cut out ring inside, that holds it in place over the pump. Sort of. And you know what they say: It is the inner values that matter…

For my gusto, the cover top is a bit too loose, I want it to stick stronger. This guy needs to go to the surgeon and needs a silicon enhancement.

Today, I have a meeting with my Austrian cover top producer,who does a great job, by the way: Providing these cups made from beech wood, in time, in an outstanding quality. Let us see what we can do there!

While I sit in meetings: Take your time and your chances to win a Carillon pour un ange over there on Scent-and-Sensibility (click here to visit Ronny’s blog). Thank you for visiting here and there.

stone

Launch or perish

July 19th, 2010

in an hour or so I will meet with the guys from Designers Club (to get an idea of them: there you go…->Designers Club Website, all new!). We will need to discuss profane stuff, such as an inlay for the box that I want to replace the paper: For a variety of reasons the paper does not work. Well, it works functionally. But esthetically it is not 100 % of what I want and -more important- it turned out to be much more work than initially expected.

You know: The tin box gets delivered with one piece of black paper, already assembled and folded to fit a flacon in the middle. But it turned out that one paper is not enough, hence…. we have to take another sheet of black paper, squeeze and roll it, fold it around a flacon and then put the flacon with the paper roll on its outside into the box.  I guess you get the idea. Maybe I can do a video later this week, when putting a lot of Rêverie au jardin into tins (for unclear reasons we see a boom of my lavender centered fragrance). Thus: I want an inlay. Subito. Or better: When I order the next batch of tins. As I order them in batches of 5000: Time to get this order out soon.

This week seems to be the week of questions focused on the general nature of things and the industry and its regulators. I got a couple of great interview questions to answer this week. Thus, there is this other issue to discuss with the designer guys: When shall I launch the next perfumes (Other than Carillon pour un ange), that are in the pipeline,  spring or autumn 2011, spring 2012?  A tough one.

Sometimes it feels like “LAUNCH OR PERISH” in this industry.

Picture: Hiking mountain trails sign on a granite rock, Switzerland 2010

nelke

book keeping and book writing magic

July 18th, 2010

a week in reflectionToday is Sunday. Time to have a look into the Sunday newspaper (5 min) and shake your head. We have undoubtedly entered the slack season and the holidays here in Europe started with the traffic jam on the Gotthard road south, like every year with the Gotthard tunnel being the rate limiting factor in the private transport chain from north to south through the alps….

We will hit south, too. But the plan is to use the bike, from Geneva to the Mediterranean. I figured this is easy. Overall, it will only go downhill.

But back to the Sunday: I look back to an exciting week. The new website is working fine. The first 300 flacons of the “UNE ROSE VERMEILLE” are filled. I counted my stock (ufff!) and my bookkeeper will use the numbers and do his magic. And I feel like Alice in book keeping wonderland. I 100% unconditionally totally admire my book keeper (the W.-factor) who understands the numbers forth and back. I used to only have a simple excel file: What comes in and what goes out. Now we have this double entry bookkeeping and I am simply amazed how you can look at numbers from all different perspectives.

Anyhow: This week featured a nice start of the “A MOMENT WITH LILY OF THE VALLEY ” community book writing project. There was one little misunderstanding:

THIS E-BOOK PROJECT CONTINUES UNTIL EARLY 2011! And I need more contributions and hope that I can motivate many more…

I will continue collecting the contributions from the community and will start working on the publication of the e-book by early 2011. Then, by spring 2011, I will use the media and press that I get in spring to push this e-book and make sure that it sells, because all profit goes to charity. Thus, there is time to contribute and no hurry.

I wish you a great Sunday.

Today’s picture: a mountain carnation, seen on Wednesday.