Tauer Perfumes

Archive for October, 2011

EPSON MFP image

funky and more

October 31st, 2011

There we go: finally I could leave tauerville for a few hours, leave the boxes and bottles, and have time on the computer to write invoices and mails. But before I do so:  Here’s  a treat for you that I share with greatest pleasure. A great article in funky layout with serious text on a project that is dear to my heart: Persolaise discusses Woman’s Picture , Tableau de Parfums and what Brian Pera, the Memphis based movie maker, and me are doing there and why. Persolaise does so in the UK Esprit Magazine.

And I sure love the layout. Thus, if you want have a closer look: I uploaded a copy and leave it on the server for a day or two. Here’s the link to the 1 MB jpg.(loads slow, sorry for that….)

Enjoy!

 

miriam-flacon-detail

suggestive to something in the past

October 28th, 2011

I got a sneak preview sent to me by Aron who takes pictures of the Tableau de Parfums flacon, of Miriam to be precise, and we discussed how to proceed. Love what he did so far. I will get three pictures done: Front, back and side. The goal: Bring in light inside the flacon, let the perfume color gleam a bit through the white enamel like print on the flacon, let the medallion shine in the back, and bring out all the details such as the silver chord running around the flacon’s head.

After yesterday’s preview, I am confident that Aron will manage. Although it is not an easy flacon to take pictures of: The labels and the white print on the front “eat” a lot of light and you need to be clever to bring in the sun into the fragrance.

Pictures are important. Perfumes are judged by flacons and pictures of flacons and packaging. And I always say that perfumes are actually judged and bought by the eye. The nose is just confirming. Sometimes at least. Nosy stuff is eye stuff, too. Thus, I get these pictures done. Later, I will use them for some sort of press and communications work. To be frank: I think that Brian Pera, the Memphis based movie maker and myself, are doing something unique. And I want to make sure that perfume lovers, film lovers, art lovers understand and know.  I want them to know, that this project exists. Thus, I need to keep on talking, and make sure I get the pictures out so that others talk about it, too. It is so difficult to be heard in a world that has become very loud. Anyhow.

I want the pictures to mirror the nostalgic side of the fragrance and the modern twist that you find in both, the flacon and the fragrance.

Actually, Mals used the term “nostalgic” yesterday in the comment on Miriam. Mals is a lucky winner of the Now Smell This draw a while ago, and used the term nostaligic to describe the scent. Nostalgic  is a nice word. “Sugestive to something in the past”, says Thesaurus. I guess that fits perfectly.

The something here is the scent and the past is the time when folks still got the real thing.

lab

tell them what handmade really means

October 27th, 2011

Today’s picture shows you where I will be in 20 minutes: the room where I pour and label and pack all that goes of to world from tauerville. Towards the window, you see a row of 200 air du désert marocain, filled, waiting to be polished and labeled. Towards the camera is the dispenser that will soon start dispensing Lonestar Memories, my smoky leather fragrance that brings back memories of cowboys, archetypal memories.

It will be a very busy day there and as soon as I have done the pouring and labeling, I need to get some customs and shipment papers done and need to work on those shipments for tomorrow. Uff. And you know what? I got so many large retailer orders these days that I will need to work on stock next week. And somewhen in between, I have a nice journalist visiting me there, too. They are doing a perfume X-mas feature and we figured: Let’s give the readers the real thing. Tell them what handmade really means.

Later, when things calm down and the sun has gone, I will see that I can work on a little soapy idea. To balance, to feel creative again and not just like the man handling boxes and bottles.

Greetings from the factory.

traininmilano

back from Milano

October 26th, 2011

I write these lines while riding back from Milano, after a few hours discussing the future of Tableau de Parfums in Italy. I think the future is bright there, we hope so at least. The rest of the week sees some retail order packing hectic in the factory.

Sitting for 8 hours in trains allows to get some mails done, to think a bit, but mostly it is time wasted, being reduced to oneself, a pair of eyes looking over a scenery that passes by, with shadows of the own face mirrored in a dirty window.

And the mind does what it always does when not being occupied: it comes up with questions. Such as why I am still living in mid Europe, although I hate it here after September right into March. I know the answer, but I do not like it.

Or the question of all questions: what do I smell like. This question is partly answered here in the Nosy Interview by Elizabeth

And does my own smell influence the way I create perfumes? This question is not answered yet.

The scenery outside does not provide answers, but at least it changes all the time.

miriamposter

On Miriam on my way to Milano

October 25th, 2011

It is 7am and I am on my to Milano. There, I will meet my Italian partner and finalize the plans for 2012: I look forward to presenting Tableau de Parfums in Italy, maybe in spring.
Thus, I sit here, groggy as I have not slept enough, and after a few strenuous days I am looking forward to more heavy duty days in the factory. It is the holiday season tremors that shake our factory and we got a lot of fragrances to pack and ship in the next two weeks.
In light of this, I have not worked on something new really, except maybe in my head. But I enjoyed wearing a few fragrances lately, mostly Miriam, because it is always refreshingly new to me. Miriam is a very complex fragrance, not the linear one- shots you get these days, and hence it seems to change from day to day.

Complexity in perfumery means a lot of layers, and each layer will become relevant at some point in time. The challenge here: link these layers and yet make sure that they each can stand out and do not turn into a grey solid impermeable floor. All layers must be as translucent as possible.
This is a quality that brings me back again and again to the classics, and that makes me create perfumes like Miriam. Of course, Miriam needed to be a classics like fragrance: the movie story, the characters therein, the ambiance and the world of Miriam did not leave me with a choice.

Referring to the latest Wired article on ingredients: this is another aspect of what sets the classic scents apart: it is a different aesthetic, a different language you get there. It is like that with movies, too by the way…

viewfromwaytobigbearlake

weekend thrills

October 22nd, 2011

Here’s the plan: Tauer goes jogging on Saturday, which is a revolution in light of years doing this on Sundays. And while doing so the tauer creative director thinks “soaps”, Pachouli, et al.. Back home the tauer  financial director will provide the funds for tauer sourcing to head downtown for some shopping and when back home the tauer managing director will hit the kitchen and do some part time e-mailing, in support of the tauer communications manager.

I think you got it: There is only one guy when it comes to Tauer Perfumes and I figured I need to post this (again), just to let the world know. I get so many mails where third parties try to sell their competencies to me. And I wish they would do their homework beforehand, checking out how many employees I have (0.5, sort of). There is no need to send e-mails to the PR department of Tauer Perfumes. Nor is there an office where you could talk privately to the sourcing manager.

I was in a meeting yesterday, and the charming lady knew about this fact. We discussed business opportunities next year, interesting projects, all starting with a white paper, sort of. And while discussing  with her, I realized how small and swift my enterprise actually is. Swift as a weasel, we can adjust to needs and wishes. Now that’s a big plus. Unfortunately, there is the other side of the medal, too. Being small translates into Sunday shifts when I get a lot of orders. Guess what: You will see the blue colar tauer this Sunday in his factory, packing air du désert marcain and 15 others scents….

Here’s to a happy, free Saturday. Enjoy your weekend!

 

sunoversemidesert

it is the season

October 20th, 2011

Yesterday, the travel agency Tauer booked the upcoming travels for November, December. Some of them at least, bringing me in December to London, and end November to the Duftcontor in Oldenburg, and a few other places. I still haven’t decided on Paris, although I should but I do not really feel like going there in late autumn. But I will hit London, for a day, for an event with Les Senteurs, at their new shop! More details will follow.

Maybe I get another chance to use my Harrods card that I got to take advantage of discounts? We will see. Time will be right for X-mas presents shopping by then, and hopefully the X-mas preparation panic mode kicked in.

Later in the day, I had to hit downtown. The blue Zurich tramway transported my vulnerable body that has not adjusted to the season and Zurich’s late autumn groove into town. It poured and was cold. And it was grey. The orange cover of my ipad and the light from the pad’s display felt like the star over Bethlehem in a cold world at the edge of abyss.

Everybody around me, inside the tramway and outside behind its wet windows, seemed to have migrated to an other place. It did not seem a happy place, though. Faces were grim and not happy. It’s the season. Time for hot tea, cocoa, serotonin lifting chocolate, drinks, cigarettes if you smoke.

And time for colognes. Although perfume lovers mostly talk about colognes in summer, when they enjoy the cologne’s refreshing character, right now is  the perfect time, too. Colognes are sun bottled. The core structure is lemon and bergamot oil with neroli and rosemary ( and a few others) for the contrast. Think 50% lemon and bergamot essential oil in my upcoming cologne: The sun from Sicily in a bottle. Citrus oils are mood lifters, too. And the nice thing about colognes: You can reapply every 30 minutes. That’s a lot of sun over the day. And we sure need the sun these days.

Today’s picture: a flash back to Southern California. The sun over the semi desert. A place next the highway, where we stopped for a second. The sun is just wonderful there in the afternoon in autumn.

 

GE_oven_front

time frozen

October 19th, 2011

In Joshua tree, Border avenue, to the right, I think it was close to Canterbury, I came across the most interesting art installation imaginable in the semi desert. Piled left overs of civilization, desert art, neatly arranged, in a way it makes sense. Today’s picture shows you one detail of one object that is part of a larger installation there: A General Electric oven.

Its time froze shortly before nine. For some, the desert is frightening. For me it is a place where I can breath, grasp eternity and where I can come to peace. The desert puts things into perspective for me: The right perspective, of us being here for a very short time, being small and vulnerable. I highly respect the desert for being stronger than me and do not even argue with it (like when we lost track while hiking, we did and had to return…). In this context this art installation, a few acres filled with civilization and what civilization leaves, is actually perfectly located. I have to figure out the name of this place again. If you are in the area: Visit. It is spooky.

I love the design of this oven’s front. It looks end 50-ies, early 60-ies to me. They don’t make these things this way anymore. Now…. do not get me wrong. I do not want to go back there in time. I prefer the early 21st century with advanced cancer treatment, iphones and cars that have airbags. But there is some nostalgia coming up when I look at this oven front. Amazing how we human beings relate to objects. Like cars. Like Saab cars. Mine will be picked up today, in an hour and will be gone forever, not having survived the accident in Italy.

Or like flacons. Like old Tauer flacons. Yesterday, I finished the graphics for the label going onto the flacon and the box for the Cologne du Maghreb that we will bring as “trial version” end year. The label is more or less the same like the one from last year. I just wanted to add the term ALL BOTANICAL to it. Botanical means for me: No synthetics and no isolated molecules from natural sources. Thus, I had to have a closer look at the flacon, rectangular, simple, very simple, with a golden cap. I must have put ten thousand, or actually much more of these flacons into boxes. I still like it, a lot.

It is funny how we human beings relate to things.

Here is another picture of last year’s Cologne flacon: Enjoy!

paper-boats

the why behind the cologne mix

October 18th, 2011

OK, there we go: I mixed enough stock of my all natural, all botanical “COLOGNE DU MAGHREB” on Sunday for about 200 flacons. A few of these will go to friends and family and fans on facebook or with the blog.

But most of them will actually, provided there is an interest, retail in the US. Let us call it a “trial phase”. Not for the product in itself. There is no doubt on my side that the quality is fine. I feel very strongly since more than a year that this all natural cologne is actually going to be a part of the Tauer family at some point. It is as good a cologne as it might be an “eau fraiche” or a gentle eau de toilette with a cologne citrus burst. The Cologne du Maghreb together with a “cologne à la lavande” and a “cologne au vetiver” might ad wonderfully into my Tauer family of scents. All three are ready and sit there in the excel and wait for the decision at some time in 2012.

Thus, the trial is not about its scent quality. For me test is more on the side: How to communicate this totally different scent? It is different in terms of scent language (all botanical), it is also different as it follows the rules of how colognes are constructed.  Although, being Andy, I slightly bend these rules.

The trial is also about: What price level to set for such a scent. And the test is: Is there going to be a marke? I cannot figure a better test ground right now than Luckyscent.

Ultimately, being out there with this cologne baby with a retailer, will kick start the process of how to offer it.

The trial will be done with my “standard” 50 ml flacon, in my “standard” box with a “standard” ribbon that you might know from 3 years ago. Ultimately, I want to offer the colognes in about 70-100 ml size new flacons.  But at the core of it all is communication: Communication and maybe even sales channels for this line of scents might be different and very crucial. And after yesterday’s comments: Here is an idea for the claim that might go with a cologne line. “Sun, bottled. ”

Love it!

PS: the picture of today shows you what I have seen yesterday on my way home from the warehouse. A little water stream with three origami paper boats and some colored leaves. An allegory for the flow of things.

 

mixing_cologne

All botanical citrus rush while mixing cologne

October 17th, 2011

So I am back in Switzerland since last Friday, trying to convince my day-night brain cycle that I am here and not there in LA anymore. Quite a useless venture it seems. Thus, I have an e-mail inbox that is all empty with almost all mails answered because I am there 24 hours.

Thus, I have some time during the day to move on with fragrant stuff. Yesterday, after doing all the necessary calculations I mixed the Cologne du Maghreb, a little batch for 200 flacons of 50 ml. The picture to the left shows you what goes into it. I took it yesterday before pouring all raw materials one after the other into the 12 liter aluminum can. Last year’s advent calendar treat was based on this cologne. You find it reviewed for instance here on Sorcery of Scent by Dimitri.

It is 19 ingredients. All of them are all natural. All botanical. Just essential oils and resins and absolutes. Not less not more. Why all botanical? I answered this  a while ago in a comment on my blog: Because I feel there is no need to add anything else here. It is good enough as is.

In a sense it is an ultra complex mixture and yet ultra simple: Just mixing the right citrus oils together with a few raw materials that last a bit longer. In this sense, I could label the Cologne also Eau Fraiche. But then: I guess Cologne fits its quality better, with the lemon bergamot neroli rush.

I will give you more details on the construction in the coming days and why and what  and when. For the time being: I enjoy the citrus signature that yesterday’s venture added to the house.