Tauer Perfumes

Archive for November, 2011

ukborder

an extra day

November 29th, 2011

I will present a few thoughts on roses on Thursday evening, organized by Les Senteurs. Thus, I will travel to London. Yesterday, my friendly airline informed me that November 30 the UK border agency folks are on  strike and that the airlines flies but they cannot really tell about the immigration procedures. It may be hours or half a day.  They were friendly enough to allow free re-booking. That’s what I did and thanks to the UK strike I get an extra day off in London. And it will be sunny. I will pack my jogging stuff, and caress my Harrods card.

Not that I would not have other things on my to do list for tomorrow. It is a busy time of the year. But then: We need to take things the way they come.

OK. Time to pack. See you’ll later.

 

duftapero

the scent of herbs at the Duftapero

November 28th, 2011

Today’s post is short and an invitation to perfume lovers in the Zurich area: If you are in the area and have time you are cordially invited to this year’s “Duftapero”.

Like every year since 7 years, Pascal, the shop owner of the book shop Medieval art&vie in Zurich (the  place where you find my scents exclusively in Switzerland), and me invite perfume loving friends to a get together. There, in the Felseneggkeller, Spiegelgasse 18, on December 10, between 5 and 7 pm we will sniff, drink a glass of sparkling wine and enjoy a moment of peace. And like every year, we invited an actor to read a fragrant story.

This year’s scent topic: the scent of herbs. I will present herbs essential oils such as Marjoram, Dill, Fennel, Clary sage and a few more.

And I think I will show how a herb, like Marjoram, can find its way into an all natural eau fraiche that I compose for this occasion.

And off I hop now. Bottles are waiting for me and Le Maroc pour elle.

 

minicalzonefront

perfume marketing high season

November 27th, 2011

On our way back by train from Oldenburg, where we presented us and our way of creating perfumes to a crowd of interested perfume lovers, we stopped in Hannover. I discovered a sweets vending machine, spent a few scents, entered the wrong numbers, and ended up with a Salamini Calzone, whereby SALAMINI is a registered brand name. The colors in the picture to the left match reality quite well. I have 5 more months to decide whether I want to go ahead and actually eat it. This little yellow (think bread) and red (think salami) piece of plastic is a reason to praise vegetarianism.

And artisanal, indie salami making and hand crafted food. Real food.

But you won’t find these in a vending machine. And they don’t come for 50 Euro cents a piece. The same is true for fragrances.

Although when it comes to fragrances and their marketing, there are some differences to salami. Right now is perfume marketing high season. And based on what I see there, perfume comes with a higher erotic factor than salami. The ads: Cliché. Lips open and eyes in search of anybody to copulate immediately with , the perfect SHE reclines in a position that seems utterly uncomfortable with  a perfume flacon nearby.

Perfume is everywhere. Too much for my gusto. Ads everywhere and little articles about scents and how to pick fragrances as gifts. The problem: Perfumes are not an optimal gift. I always say: The perfect gift is a few hours, together, in a perfumery, and the promise to pay whatever is picked as the perfect scent. Being a somewhat interested observer you wonder… The city is plastered with poster sized ads. And you wonder who is going to pay all this.

And again, it is the same for Salamini(R) calzones: Who is going to buy the salamini calzones before they become trash?

scentstriprose

not even an oligarch can get it

November 21st, 2011

Today, I finished another rose mix that will go into the molten glycerine soap, that will go into the soap pouring frame, allowing me to pour 48 soaps at once and come up with soap bars. Rose scented soap bars. The mixture is actually quite simple, consisting of 10 ingredients, rose absolute (r. damascena from Bulgaria), Bergamot essential oil and geranium (Bourbon quality) being the naturals.

This soap like all my soaps cannot be bought. It is made to exist in the moment, as a gift and a sign of appreciation, for special moments. And -to be frank- from a commercial point of view these soaps would not make sense. Too much work  goes into the preparation of them, too much expensive raw material is inside. In a sense, these soaps are the most luxurious product I have. It is so luxurious that not even an oligarch can get it, if you know what I mean.

Right now, I am still sitting at home, writing these lines, but as soon as they disappear in the e-universe and as soon as the paper to wrap the soaps later is printed (my printer is not keeping up with my speed) I will ride my bike to hit the little 2 room factory of mine and start melting and pouring. And thinking about Wednesday. Then I will be in Oldenburg (yes…where is Oldenburg? Think  Bremen and move a bit more to the West) and will try to make sense on the topic “Perfumery, manufacturing, composing and creative venture”. Sort of. It is a Duftsalon, a getting together, scheduled for Wednesday, 19.30, with perfume lovers, organized by the Duftcontor in Oldenburg. One of the few German hotspots for selective perfumes and perfumery. Actually, I am really, really looking forward to this.

I will for sure bring a rose absolute with me, to show to the perfume loving crowd.

Thus, I am sitting here with my little scent strip, dipped into the rose concentrate soap mixture and I wish I had a touch more time right now. I would love, love, love so much to play a bit with it: play on the lines of a rose fragrance with this rose at is center, aldehydic, with hints of maybe tuberose in the head, a hint of muscs and woods, a trace of sandalwood maybe….

 

 

mirim-flacon-side

love the idea of going back

November 18th, 2011

Right now, I am working on my newsletter, scheduled to go out end of this month, pictures and later some text. Basically, I am announcing the advent calendar 2011, and tell my newsletter readers that the Pentachords are here since September, Miriam, the first fragrance from the Tableau de Parfums series, is there since October and that the Cologne du Maghreb will be available, November 30, at indiescents.com.

I will publish in this newsletter some of the pictures of the Miriam flacon that I got done the other day. To the left you see a cut out of one of them. Yesterday, I wore Miriam, during an Apéro. I felt so good. I hope that in the holiday season a lot of fragrance lover will discover the fragrance Miriam and the movie Miriam that is available for download now as rental or as full buy version. I got my lifetime copy yesterday. Follow this link to the Miriam download page. Most of the content, by the way, is there on Evelyn Avenue for free. I feel like I need to post a bit longer on the videos and Miriam, the movie, in the coming days. But first things first: I need to get this newsletter done.

The Cologne du Maghreb is an all natural, all botanical cologne that I offer in as long as supply lasts in the “old” 50 ml flacon and in the “old” white box with a little ribbon around it. The idea  to offer this scent for some time on indiescents.com came to us when Franco Wright and me discussed the indiescents offering. Indiescents.com is like an incubator for upcoming brands and fragrant concepts. And the products that you find in the shelves of indiescents.com are artisanal, handcrafted, original and created with much love.

I found the idea of being there with a flacon neat. After some time at indiescents.com I will need to make up my mind how to move on with the Colognes and other ideas. For money reasons, price tag etc. I cannot offer the cologne in my pentagonal flacon. I think so at least. Thus, at some time next year I will need to decide what to do next: Get another larger volume flacon of 75-100 ml  for tauer, get a simpler packaging for the cologne or forget it altogether. For the time being, I just love the idea of going back to my roots for some time. Feels good.

 

beercrown

carrying things like a Labrador

November 16th, 2011

While hiking in Joshua Tree a while ago  I picked up a rusty beer crown, sitting somewhere on the ground in the desert and I put it into my backpack. I figured it will remind me one day in this hike. It did.

After I passed the security checks in Chicago, getting semi naked and trying to assemble everything that was mine after the x-ray scan, I found it again and remembered Joshua Tree. In the mean time it has become an object with a history. Sitting in this backpack of mine, it has seen Zurich, Los Angeles, passed by Philadelphia, Chicago, will soon see London and Oldenburg. Being an inanimate object, it nevertheless is charged, with pictures and emotions.

I guess we all do. Pick things up and start carrying them with us like Labradors. By picking them up, we bond to objects. And then we carry them with us. I try to carry as little as possible, but nevertheless end up picking objects on a daily basis. Like my newest gadgets, or bottles, or pieces of paper with print that I have a hard time throwing away. From time to time I try to get rid of a lot of them. I try to give myself free space again. I try to get rid of whatever holds me in time and space, in order to breath freely and see where I need to go next.

When it comes to brands and businesses, it is quite comparable. You add things to your brand. Scented papers, bottles, fragrances, labels, designs, text. Next year, it will be two years of the new look in tauerville.  Next year will be time to seriously look into things.

And, next year, I will also need to decide what I am going to do with a few scents such as the Cologne du Maghreb. We will offer this cologne for some time at indiescents.com in the old tauer flacon, with the white box and ribbons around it, (launch November 29),… more on this developing story soon. I am still very undecided whether I should pick up another object or not.

Patchoulol

Patchouli 5th avenue style

November 15th, 2011

Yesterday, I talked to my preferred supplier of essential oils, synthetics and other delights. We discussed the oh my! so expensive Champaca absolute, and they will source me some, later this or early next year. It will neatly fit into my recently acquired Osmanthus (yummieh!) treasure. And my new quality Patchouli essential oil that I got from Spain the other day: Think Patchoulol!

Patchoulol is a molecule that is part of Patchouli essential oil and makes about 30% of it. By selective distillation you can get Patchouli oil that is enriched in Patchoulol, to about 65% for instance. How the molecule looks you see on the right side of this post.

This Patchouli, rich in Patchoulol, smells like Patchouli, but 5th avenue style. Think rich and expensive patchouli instead of amusement park patchouli. More on the woody side. Just wonderful.

Thus, like every year towards the end of the year I venture into new molecules and new natural delights that will keep me busy in the next year. Now, this does not really translate directly into new fragrances. I have launched enough recently, and even if I come up with new fragrances, it might well be that they will never go into production. I am learning these days that I can also create fragrances for myself and a few: Folks who care and do not need the full blown fragrance launch thing with flacons, labels etc.

But for sure these delights translate directly into fun for the perfumer, learning and exploring uncharted territory. Exploring new raw materials is one of the most exciting ventures you can get as a perfumer. Following the material during its development on paper strips, learn how it behaves in combination with others, see how it disappears and comes back is thrilling and inspiring.

These natural raw materials are like a primordial soup, a pool where new ideas are born and let out to pass the survival test.

 

leave

winter is approaching

November 14th, 2011

Let me start here with a little haiku I am up the other day.

**November**

-A last yellow leave

Gliding through November light-

Winter is so near.-

The idea for the haiku came to me when I saw a yellow leave falling from a black branch of a tree in late afternoon. The picture of today shows you another leave that I picked in the woods after jogging. This autumn was spectacular.

Indeed, winter is approaching. With it come cold days, dark days and a pathologic longing for spring. I can already hear you; how nice it is to cuddle in the evening, drink tea and enjoy the season. To be frank: I rarely enjoy winter, except for a few moments of sun over snow and in the Alps. And it definitely lasts too long around here. I mean, common, it won’t be before end March that we can begin considering sitting for longer than 5 minutes outside on the balcony.  But, I guess there is no reason complaining: Change things or get used to them.

After a few days abroad, I am basically getting ready for the last few trips this year: Oldenburg, in Germany, where I will talk on artisanal and indie perfumery at the Duftcontor, and London, November 30, where I will talk about roses. And then there are the upcoming activities in December such as the advent calendar and the annual scent apero in Zurich.

Thus, I am looking in to 6 more interesting weeks this year and then, then I am ready for 2012. And spring.

When looking seriously into 2012, I am not really worried, but developed some sort of fatalism. The innocent observer that I am, totally untrained when it comes to economics and monetary policies, I cannot but see very clearly that we are heading for inflation. Big times. I mean: really BIG. Inflation is the last resort to get rid of debts and get the money from there where it (still) is: folks. When jogging yesterday, looking into 2012 and discussing what might be next in tauerville, where to invest with what and what scents to launch and not and so on, when discussing all these issues we wondered whether it might not be THE time now to run into depth. I mean really BIG depth. And maybe get property and farmland somewhere, like in a place where the sun shines and where it is warm. When the inflation hits we would at least have food and a nice tan. On a serious note: I unfortunately know some people these days who actually seriously consider exactly that: Getting farmland.

As we cannot change things anyhow, I guess we just wait until the first bank is run over and take things from there, then.

Besides these Armageddon thoughts, the jog was actually nice and thoughts meandered from flacons to patchouli and colognes and back. Thus, if you like colognes, the natural way, maybe you want to mark in your calendars the following: November 30 and indiescents.com.

And now we move on, looking into a sky full of yellow leaves. So pretty.

 

 

 

travels

November 7th, 2011

I am travelling and forgot to announce this. I will be back in a few days.
Cheers

frangipani

frangipani twist

November 4th, 2011

I managed to hang myself through a series of busy days into Friday: fragrantly creative Friday and photo taking Friday and texting Friday. I will -finally!- touch the composition for INGRID again, one of the portraits of Woman’s Picture, and inspiration for a fragrance that we will launch 2013, and add a twist. A frangipani twist.

I have been thinking on the Ingrid composition for a long time now. I had it one for weeks now, in the night, during the day. The base of the fragrance is finished. It lasts and evolves wonderfully. The core axis are fine, too. It fits with what I want it to be, but there is something rotten and wrong there. I have a trial version that is call Version 2nd of August. Since then I tried about 6 or so different routes but none brought me there where I see the scent, in perfection, for Ingrid. It took me a while to find a good source for the frangipani absolute, but now I got it, a first 50 gr sample to work with and do a pre-batch if needed. I will use the frangipani absolute to sooth and correct one line in the scent that was odd. It was not sexy enough. And a bit odd. Hard to describe. The notes of the composition, that is quite complex, are: a citrus chord of Bergamot, sweet orange and lemon, with complementing notes of cinnamon, clove, lavender. The flower heart is now a super complex hyacinth, jasmine, rose.  This will change to hyacinth, frangipani, rose, the base is a rich oriental resinous base of tolu, vanilla, sandalwood, styrax and hints of cistus balms. Thus, today’s  photo shows you what I will smell and mix in an hour: frangipani. I actually took the picture a couple of years ago in Kenya.

Photos: I will try to make a nice photo of the Cologne du Maghreb flacon, using all I know and a bit more of Photoshop, too. The Cologne du Magreb is packed and shipped to indiescents.com.  I will talk about this venture a bit more in detail over the weekend, I guess. Bottom line: I need a photo and PR text for this all natural and all botanical baby of mine that I love so much.

And yes, I have never in my entire life shipped so many perfumes out like during the last 3 weeks. And I have never packed so many perfume bottles and I actually never filled so many perfume bottles. So this was good. But, there is a but. We face a stock issue (again) and I think 2012 will see some changes on how we do things here.  This is good, I think.