Tauer Perfumes

Archive for March, 2012

 

on my way to Milan

March 30th, 2012

Fragrant greetings, today from the train to Milan (again), where I will stay for a day, sleeping in an affordable hotel, and trying not to get homesick. It has been a while since I slept for a couple of days in a row at home.
But I do not want to complain. In the end, it was me who decided when to go where. Next week, on Monday, you will see me in Paris(again), where I am doing a little, but nice!, event with Antonio to officially launch the fragrance Miriam in Paris at Marie-Antoinette. Probably one of the cosiest selective perfumeries in Paris.
But first Milan. I am so looking forward to visiting Esxence. We decided again not to exhibit, we = me and my Italian importer. I am too small and cannot afford to present my fragrances twice a year. Although we would have great news for Italy to present: Tableau de Parfums, with Miriam, is ante portas in Italy.
And talking Tableau. Yes, we did it. Together with you. We reached our kickstarter goal. I thank all of you who pledged and supported us by sharing and by spreading the news. So this is over now and I am very happy that it all worked out so nicely. It will be my job to actually make these soaps and fill the Dark Passage and Loretta purse sprays.
I wonder how many mails I will get in the coming weeks wherein folks ask for a Dark Passage sample or a purse spray, on exceptional basis because they heard about it or missed the campaign. I have not really come up with a plan there. I will probably come up with a page on my site where I say no. Thus, I can reply to these requests by simply sending a link. You would not believe how many mails I still get where perfume lovers ask for Orris, my limited edition fragrance created a couple of years ago…. and yes: just in case you wonder, no chance. Orris is gone.
After all these kickstarter posts, I would like to end this post with a little note on hyacinth. I have a few blooming right now in my little garden. After running and packing and jumping forth and back all day yesterday, I took a few minutes off, sitting next to the pink beauty.It was simply amazing how leathery this scent seemed to me. A sweet spicy green creamy leathery scent.

display

the last reminder of the kickstarter campaign

March 27th, 2012

This is the last reminder of our kickstarter campaign. There are 50 hours left to reserve your purse spray of Dark Passage, the dark rich and evocative scent that I created specifically for this campaign. Or get some fragrant soaps that are also quite unique, or get a sneak pre-release size of  Loretta, the next fragrance in the Tableau de Parfums series. Or many more combinations of fragrant objects.  50 hours and then it is all over.

Hurry up. And when you are back: Today’s picture shows you the display that we got to present fragrances and the world of Evenlyn Avenue. Enjoy!

 

almondtree

almond blooming

March 26th, 2012

Before I talk on what I do today and tomorrow: THANK YOU! For your great support of the Kickstarter campaign for our film project ONLY CHILD. Now are the last days if you want to make sure to get your hands on my fragrance DARK PASSAGE  that is only available through this campaign, and only for these last three days left. And , by the way, you can always upgrade your existing pledge.

And me, I am back from Paris, and head south for Milan for a day tomorrow.  This time, in anticipation of Esxence, I am doing a donkey transport across the alps south and the donkey is me and transports the super nice and shiny and all so elegant Tableau de Parfums display for the shop in Milan. I think I mentioned this in one of my posts a while ago. I want the perfumery Profumo at via Brera  6 to have it installed when the Esxence starts and a lot of perfumery owners and perfume lovers are in the town.

Below you see the first draft that I made to communicate my idea. Basically, it is a frame, holding an LCD display, with a little table holding a perfume flacon. Today I picked them up, and soon a little fortune will be gone from my bank account. I do not really know whether this display will make sense from a pure commercial point of view. But it makes from an artistic point of view. I allows us to communicate and talk, with little movies, what Miriam, what Tableau de Parfums and what Evelyn Avenue is all about. And we can introduce the fragrance.

Tomorrow, or rather the day after tomorrow I hope to be able to share a picture of the display installed and “running”.

Today’s picture on the left shows you a picture reminding me of the south. An almond tree in bloom. Seen in the Zurich area, yesterday, blooming under an immaculate blue sky. Wonderful!

spring1

visiting Paris

March 22nd, 2012

It is spring and the world looks different. More colorful, and warm and sunny. Wonderful. Soon, the world around me will also look different because I am on my way to Paris, where I will attend the big, BIG, official shop opening of Jovoy, THE niche store in Paris these days. I hope that I will meet a lot of perfume loving French there and I can’t actually wait to see the new shop. I visited and was shown the premises before Jovoy moved in and I can only guess how glorious it must look now.

Thus, this will be an all exciting trip. A short trip, though. I am back 48 hours later, and will have to continue there where I stopped yesterday: Bottling and packaging more Miriam, Tableau de Parfums.

Before leaving, I want to share a video with you.  Click here to view it on my vimeo channel. I got the chance to talk to Al, Streetscents Al. He told me how everything began and where he is heading. And he got the chance to smell Loretta, the second fragrance from Tableau de Parfums, scheduled for release in September /October 2012. A pre-release of Loretta is available as part of the Kickstarter campaign (hurry up, it ends March 29) supporting Brian Pera’s film ONLY CHILD.

Enjoy!

ny7

back and getting ready

March 20th, 2012

I think it is fair to say that Jovoy has become the first stop for selective niche in Paris. Finally.  And I am going there. The next city on my radar is Paris, where I will attend the official shop opening of Jovoy. My bottles already are, although you do not see them on their website, yet.

But first things first: Fragrant greetings from Zurich, where I got back yesterday morning. It feels like a stop in between, with some time to stock up Miriam purse sprays, samples, working on orders and getting new white T-shirts packed. Lucky me, I switched to Lewis 501 and a white T-shirt a while ago, thus no worries what to pack for the next trip.

NY was great, and we sure had a lot of fun there. We= John and me, and many others. I think John has the coolest home made, colored bottles on the market. Did you know that he actually spray colors all bottles himself, with great looking metallic car paint, that goes just wonderful what is inside the flacons (interesting scents and worth trying out, for sure!)? They look stunning and on the first sight you would not believe that they are hand made. But they are. Each one of them.

John Pegg, perfumer and founder of the brand Kerosene Trewthe

MiN, one of the coolest selective niche perfumery, with great chairs to relax and enjoy scents, is becoming a true hot spot for niche, for sure on the East coast of the US. Saturday afternoon was all joy, and I met so many perfume lovers! All nice guys. Amazing. My thanks go to Mindy and Chat who made it all possible and to everybody who joined and came by. And, as always, I forgot to take pictures. But I did one of the drink’s main ingredients: White Pike Whiskey. Great stuff, also when mixed.

Before heading for Paris on Thursday, I need to work on some stock and on some e-mails.  And I, yes, I am still all in positive shock and smile from here to there, as I made it into Basenote’s readers finalists top 5 as perfumer 2011. Which is of course totally exaggerated and I hope that Mona di Orio will be the final winner.  I really wish. But still, this is really cool. And als in the top five position landed, by the way, MiN, Luckyscent, Les Senteurs.

You see: it was a good time in NY. To compensate a bit, I went for a few jogs in town with my phone. Here are the pictures of what I have seen there. Enjoy!

 

 

 

 

 

 

tuberosebud

on the tuberose in the fragrance Loretta

March 14th, 2012

Today, I want to talk about the Tuberose note in Loretta: How I created the tuberose accord. For those not familiar with Loretta: This is the next, upcoming fragrance from Tableau de Parfums. It will launch in autumn 2012, but you can get a purse spray size (7 ml) of it for a limited time in the Kickstarter campaign for Only Child,  my movie project with Brian Pera.

I got a couple of questions on the TUBEROSE in Loretta. I said earlier that it wanted Loretta to be mysterious, oriental and dark and rich.  Let me explain here how and why I did the tuberose for Loretta the way I did it.

When you say “tuberose” there is a lot of attention. Yes, for good reasons. Tuberose is a one of a kind natural scent. Thus, I imagined that it is time to talk a little bit about the different facets that you may find in tuberose, and what I did with them in the Loretta fragrance. It might also shine a light on the complexity of creating perfumes, using a lot of natural ingredients, thus working a bit like 50 years ago. But, just to underline this: Loretta is not vintage inspired like Miriam (the first scent in the Tableau line that references the 30-ies). Thus, there we go. On tuberose….

The natural tuberose scent, in my nose, is very, very complex. There is a sweet, almost narcotic side to it, but WITHOUT any indolic references. Part of it comes from benzyl acetate that is a natural component of the tuberose fragrance, that you also find in ylang or jasmine. I used this molecule, too; together with vanilla that brings in a soft, powdery sweetness, lasting through the entire scent development. Not too much, though. As I did not want to create a vanilla pudding.

Another striking feature of tuberose is its “salicylate” side, a powdery, medicinal, very out-going scent. Natural tuberose is fully loaded with salicylates of all sorts. I think Luca Turin once described the power of salicylates by stating something on the line “add some salicylate and you’ll make it a big perfume”. Loretta for sure is a big scent, thus I used quite some salicylates, too. I went for benzyl salicylate, nothing special there, except that it really adds quite some lovely powder power to Loretta.

Then we have naturally some “green molecules” in Tuberose, there is a citrus-geranium note in it and you find molecules such as geraniol if you do an analysis of the scent. Here comes in the rose that I use in Loretta. It is actually worth an entire post, as I built a complex rose accord into Loretta, that takes the tuberose by the hand and twirls and dances. It consists among other things of rose absolute and rose oil, the steam distilled expensive stuff, actually 2 parts absolute, 1 part essential oil.

The essential oil of rose brings in another aspect that I absolutely wanted to support in the tuberose for Loretta: The spices. I wanted Loretta’s tuberose to be spicy and oriental. Not like a oriental market, but still: Spicy. Thus, I use clove and cinnamon and hints of coriander (just hints). The rose essential oil is wonderful in the sense that it blends gently into these natural spice oils, it rounds them off, softens them,  and ads an exotic, mysterious touch to the head notes.

If you do a head space analysis of the tuberose flowers, you find also a lot of molecules that you find in citrus blossoms, such as anthranilates, or nerols. The flower comes with a distinct orange blossom aspect, but without the indolic side of the white flowers.  But if you smell the absolute of tuberose, there is  only a very, very fine line of citrus blossom. An absolute of a natural flower is -of course- always a man made product and a lot of facets go lost during the extraction process. Thus, I wanted this citrus blossom aspect a bit stronger and did so by adding an entire orange blossom chord to the fragrance, with orange absolute in the center. I did not want to use the neroli because of its cologne reference and its natural sharpness. I rather brightened up the natural orange blossom absolute (that you find in the same amounts in there like the rose absolute) with a few extra molecules added. The orange blossom adds a lot of “flowers” to the Loretta fragrance. And it makes a bridge to the woody notes of the base, as orange blossom absolute comes with a woody side aspect.

Then, to come to an end, there are the tuberose specials! The TUBEROSE  ONLY MOLECULES. The molecules that you only find in tuberose. Some of them are lactones, a group of molecules that often come with a creaminess, or a scent reminding in roasted nuts, at least in my nose. I used a lactone that is quite expensive, a synthetic molecule that occurs naturally in tuberose. Add this Givaudan miracle, in reasonable amounts and it does wonders together with the tuberose absolute. It is magic. The tuberose absolute that I use comes from Biolandes in France. It is super expensive, more expensive than rose oil or neroli, and I use the same amount like rose absolute. In itself is smells of spicy, dark tuberose. Add some of these tuberose lactones and the absolute explodes and in front of your nose stands a tuberose, larger than life.

I will try to continue talking about Loretta and the mysterious, dark sides of it, in the coming days. But first I need to fly to NY, for a cocktail at MIN’s. I will bring a little vial of Loretta with me. When you are in the area: You might get a whiff of a tuberose.

(today’s picture: Tuberose buds, take about 2005 with my nikon)

tuberose

your support makes the difference and tuberose

March 13th, 2012

Today, I am asking you for your contribution to help us finance the production of Brian Peras’s film project ONLY CHILD, featuring Grace Zabrinski, through the kickstarter campaign. But I do not ask you to just give money. No, I came up with a lot of specials and fragrant goods for you, to reward you for your support, some of them ONE TIME specials, available only now until end March. I make fragrant soaps, 30 days LIMITED perfume DARK PASSAGE, sneak previews of LORETTA and even my products available. All this without one cent profit from all these offerings.
This is among other things how I support Brian Pera’s Kickstarter campaign, and I invite you to support it, too. And not to miss the unique opportunities offered.

Actually, it is only by our perfume loving fans that we will manage to get this movie produced. Thus, your support matters.

It is very easy: Visit the kickstarter page, select your combination of fragrant or other goods, and then follow the process that will bring you in the end to Amazon. Only if the funding goals are reached, only then, you will be charged by amazon and get your promised goodies later. If we fail, nobody gets anything. Thus: Spread the message, please.

You can get the  fragrance DARK PASSAGE, edp, 7 ml, in a  nice purse spray, offered only now until the end of March (29th) and then it is gone. You can combine it with a 7 ml purse spray of LORETTA, the fragrance. This is a sneak preview of the fragrance that will launch end autumn 2012. You can be the first to sniff my first fragrance where tuberose plays a major role! And you may even combine all this and more and get a fragrance from my entire line, at a discount that rocks: For a pledge of 300$ you can get 7ml purse sprays of LORETTA, DARK PASSAGE, MIRIAM, all three soaps (rose, mandarines ambrée, tuberose scented Loretta soap) and one fragrance, full bottle,  from my line, your choice. You can’t beat that.

Loretta- the film poster

Thus, yes. We need your contribution. And for this I made a tuberose scented soap that is just wonderful. As is the tuberose rich fragrance, Loretta, a slightly fragrance, rich, sensual. I use a lot of the “real stuff” in there: Tuberose absolute. A honey like, dark orange absolute that is unbelievable rich and voluminous. Together with rose oil, rose absolute, orange blossom absolute and many other naturals, it blends into a perfume that is one of the richest I have ever done.

a tuberose flower

Today’s picture shows you such a natural tuberose. I took the pictures in 2005 and fell in love with its natural fragrance that is overwhelming. It took me a while… but when I saw Loretta, the film, I knew that tuberose is her flower. So to say.

You can experience why before all others. Thank you for your support.

 

compliant

compliant

March 8th, 2012

there we go…I successfully completed the PCI Data Security Standard Compliance Assessment Task.  And I am compliant. Uff.

Basically this means that my online shop is safe and that I do not store any credit card data. Well, I cannot store them, to be precise, as all credit cards data on my online shop are not handled through me but through a super safe postfinance interface.  Be it: Tauer GmbH (that’s my official company) is compliant.

You see: An exciting morning so far. Next: Getting ready for the factory and boxing some perfumes among other things.

And when I am done with that, back to the computer, getting shipment papers ready and maybe hopefully squeeze in a moment with my ipad painting and with some raw materials, playing. I would love to continue playing with tuberose et al. Every morning when I wash my hands with the tuberose fragrant soap called Loretta that I made to support the kickstarter campaign for Only Child, every morning I think: Today I need to continue there. The soap fragrance feels to me like a building block for a nice scent, like Mandarines ambrée, the soap, was for Orange Star. We will see. I do not want to tease you too much.

Anyhow: I must admit… these days I am a bit tuberose lover. And every day I learn that there are many, many tuberose lovers out there. Are you?

inumbria

somewhere in the past

March 7th, 2012

Today’ s picture shows you a little cut out of a larger picture. The larger picture was taken a few years ago (think 20 years) when traveling in Umbria, Italy. Back then I used to take a lot of black and white pictures with my SLR (single lense reflex) camera. Part of the larger picture you see on my facebook profile foto, provided facebook is up and running again. The whole picture is on my scanner right now.

I am not the guy who looks back that often, as I have much too many plans for the next days and months. What I like about this particular picture and the way it was taken is: Back then you had to wait. You took a photo and then you waited for weeks eventually, to see how it turned out. Now, it is seconds only. I love digital photography, but looking at some analog pictures I see that the waiting period and the complications of analog photography come with a bonus.

In sense, for the time being, creating perfumes is very an analog business still. It involves a lot of waiting, for minutes or hours until a nose has calmed down after mixing, for days or weeks until the mixture has matured, for years until you have thought enough about things. I am sure that in large industry this has changed already. When I started working on the soap that you can get in the kickstarter campaign for Only Child (click here to go and get it by pledging) I remembered what Guy Robert said in his book “Les Sens du Parfum”, a book recommended to anybody who wants to start making perfumes, that the real big numbers you make in the fragrance industry not by creating perfumes but by creating scents for soaps and cleaner et al.

We tend to forget this when talking perfumes and about the art of perfumery.

But, although soaps et al. are the big business: I would like to use this post to underline that I do not really plan to build a soap business. Rest assured. It might a soap or two one day, here or there, and you might see soaps for special occasions from time to time. I think my soaps are not made for big business anyhow. They involve a lot of hand work, and somewhat precious raw materials, the loretta soap offered in the kickstarter campaign features among other ingredients rose absolute and jasmine absolute.  And – not really surprising- I did a test without these naturals: The result is not the same.

Brian Pera will talk a bit more on his blog about the soap, I guess. And a few other goodies. Thus, stay tuned there. Thank you!

 

psbw

Dark Passage and kickstarter

March 6th, 2012

Today’s picture shows you the Tableau de Parfums purse spray that I will soon fill with DARK PASSAGE, the super limited edition that is only available in March through the Kickstarter campaign for ONLY CHILD. Afterwards , when the financing and support campaign for Brian Pera’s latest film project comes to an end, then the perfume will be gone. ONLY CHILD is the next Evelyn Avenue full feature film project. I was lucky enough to read the script and love it. It is mysterious, noir and continues there where the Loretta story ended in Woman’s Picture.

You can get the fragrance here, on Kickstarter. Just check out the various pledges and follow the process through. The mechanics behind it is all done by Amazon.com. Thus, it is super safe and easy. Click here to get to the campaign page.

And yes, besides DARK PASSAGE, you find other treats  there, too. Some of them are fragrant. Like the Loretta soap (more on this tomorrow). Some of them are film and other arts related. And more is to come. Thus, you might from time to time visit again, either Kickstarter, or follow the story developing on Evelyn Avenue’s blog. And of course Facebook, and twitter.

So… the fragrance Dark Passage SNAPSHOT is here to stay for a couple of days only and then it will be gone. And -like it or not- the same is true for most fragrances that see the world today. They are gone tomorrow. Tomorrow might be a few months or years.  But most of them are gone within a year. For me this first SNAPSHOT fragrance comes as a relief. Finally, I can do a fragrance that does not need to go through any distribution and sales machinery and EU registration and other investments. It is just here. If you are interested in it: Get it.

I think I will not even answer mails about it when March and Dark Passage is gone.

It is refreshing: Think about it for a couple of months, create it during a couple of months, offer it for a month, and then forget it and make room for new creations and ideas. An artist’s dream come true.