Tauer Perfumes

reviews

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COLOGNE du Maghreb

June 18th, 2014

Today, after me packing more Colognes in tauerville yesterday, a word on the Cologne du Maghreb, and an illustration of the cologne flacon, as seen in the factory yesterday, digital.
Sooooo…. the cologne: First a couple of links pointing to reviews. Have fun reading about summer bottled!
Gaia Fishler at The Non-Blonde
Jodi Battershell of Fragrantica
Samantha at I Scent You a Day
Vanessa at Bonkers About Perfume
Kafkaesque at Kafkaesque
Grant Osborne at Basenotes
Lucas at Chemist in the Bottle
Mark Behnke at Colognisseur

You see: We did some promotion there. Or better said: We offered samples to bloggers. More reviews are to be expected. When I send samples, I never ever demand that bloggers write, nor that they write positively. I wish so, of course, as we all do not like to read unpleasant articles about our creations….

I mention this, as I was thinking about the cologne as a perfect example of communication, and communicating or not and what happens if you have a product in a store, and what not.
The cologne du Maghreb was for a long time in two stores only. I offered it two, three years ago, as test, and as there was some demand. I did not offer it on my store, nor did I promote it really. Although, don’t get me wrong: I think it is one of the best cologne out there on the market, whereby I mean  REAL colognes, not perfume camouflaged as cologne. This cologne comes at a concentration of 4%, all natural, handmade, in low numbers. Of course, I am totally, 100% biased and not fair. Anyhow, it is a wonderful product for a great price, really, yet this was and is not enough. (you remember the 4P: Product, Price, Place, Promotion). Assuming that the place was right, it was Promotion that was missing. It needed help. Promotion. People talking. Perfume lovers chatting about it. The press publishing (we can dream, can’t we?)….

The days when the circle of niche (artisanal, indie, whatever) fragrances was small enough that the pure existence of a scent was enough to make it known, to automatically have the word spreading, these days are over. In a sense, 10 years ago, there were exceptional circumstances, of a market emerging, with consumers being on the alert.

Promotion, of course, means much more than sending samples to bloggers. Like said above: We are talking about press, pictures, and and and. The goal: Getting out of the corner.

And this is the end of my post: You know, sometimes I fall into a state of stasis, when I see how much money pours into promotion by brands, be they niche or not, and what effect it has. It is brainwash money. Used very effectively, coming with the desired result. Like an article in the NY Times, about that everybody seems to talk, highly agitatedly, without realizing that it actually is just a perfect marketing piece for a larger store chain and their new fragrant products, repeating facts that were like that since always as news

Here, being niche in a niche in a niche, I can’t really do that (pour money), but at least we can try to be smarter. Although: Not easy, really.

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Why I am optimistic for brick and mortar

May 29th, 2014

Today, here in Switzerland, is a holiday, and all the shops are closed, and we got time to read. For instance: This interesting review of my Cologne du Maghreb, by Lucas, running the chemist in the bottle blog. And, if heading over to the chemist in the bottle: Make sure not to miss my interview there (including a cool picture that I did in the factory), and you might want to check soon again Lucas’ blog, for …well,  surprise, surprise !

So, there we go: Shops are closed, except for the online shops of course!

Shopping Online: Bigger and bigger.
Here, we did not shop a lot, lately. A few its and bits. And, to be frank, what I shopped lately I did online. Although I am downtown almost daily, I got tired of stepping into shops expecting the usual scenario; sales “assistants” that are, well, not a lot of help, bad air, too many others. You get it. I am not alone: My friends shop online, too. During the day or night, when they feel like it, not when the shops feel it is time to open their runways. Here in Switzerland, shop opening times are still somewhat regulated.

Service levels: shrinking.
And (public) service in Switzerland often stops in the afternoon, like yesterday: Although yesterday was not a holiday, but today, the Swiss Post decided to close their doors at 4 pm instead of 6 pm. On regular days they are closed between noon and 2 pm: And yes, this is exactly the time when most working people would have time to head to the post office.

Logistics: changing.
Yesterday, in the news, the Swiss Post happily announced their increased investments into offering an order fulfillment service for e-commerce, while I stood before closed doors at the local post office. (On a side note: Unfortunately, the Swiss post does not transport dangerous goods, such as perfumes, any more. It is one of the biggest obstacles for me running my business here in Switzerland. And ultimately, I might have me move part of my business out of Europe/Switzerland.) So you see: I find it all very confusing, and cannot but realize a big gap between how people shop and what shops do about it. Like many service providers, the post, and shops are in for troubles with commerce going digital, more and more; the ecommerce logistics is a cold side of the business and there is zero client relation building there.

Shops losing their core asset: relations with clients.
Online, building relations is much harder. Like in the newspaper the other day: In front of the computer it is rather lonely, and unsensual. You can’t touch the other, can’t hug, can’t smell the other person; what you smell is your own socks.

You can buy perfume online: I did it, others do it. But here is the thing that I realized when in Rome. As perfume is so incredibly sensual, emotional, personal and in need of the material manifestation before your nose: Brick and mortar stores selling perfumes are in an almost unique position. If they do it right, their business will continue to thrive, independent of what other brick and mortar businesses might lose towards online.

Looking over the rim of my coffee cup: It might well be that the more promising future for real artisanal low volume high quality independent perfumery is not online, but physical. Brick and mortar. The real thing. Because there, and midterm maybe mostly there, small enterprises and artists find their chance to proof that they are different, to build relationships with clients, to speak to clients and being heard without having to shout. Online, they might be washed away by an avalanche of money, brands, products.

I don’t know, really, but we will see. But I am optimistic for many little brick and mortar stores, here and there.

Today’s picture: scent strips on a chair, seen at the Smell Festival in Bologna

 

 

 

 

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visiting Paris

March 22nd, 2012

It is spring and the world looks different. More colorful, and warm and sunny. Wonderful. Soon, the world around me will also look different because I am on my way to Paris, where I will attend the big, BIG, official shop opening of Jovoy, THE niche store in Paris these days. I hope that I will meet a lot of perfume loving French there and I can’t actually wait to see the new shop. I visited and was shown the premises before Jovoy moved in and I can only guess how glorious it must look now.

Thus, this will be an all exciting trip. A short trip, though. I am back 48 hours later, and will have to continue there where I stopped yesterday: Bottling and packaging more Miriam, Tableau de Parfums.

Before leaving, I want to share a video with you.  Click here to view it on my vimeo channel. I got the chance to talk to Al, Streetscents Al. He told me how everything began and where he is heading. And he got the chance to smell Loretta, the second fragrance from Tableau de Parfums, scheduled for release in September /October 2012. A pre-release of Loretta is available as part of the Kickstarter campaign (hurry up, it ends March 29) supporting Brian Pera’s film ONLY CHILD.

Enjoy!

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a Miriam review on Muse in Wooden Shoes

November 2nd, 2011

The first thing I read this morning was a review. Carol who runs the Muse in Wooden Shoes blog  posted a review on the scent Miriam,  and what a review! You find it here, following this link to her blog. She put the scent into the context of  Tauer and the movie Woman’s Picture by film maker Brian Pera. Her review ends with the words “Wearing Miriam feels bittersweet and emotional, tender and wrenching and beautiful. It smells like a memory of love to me, and I will cherish it.”

Miriam is a fragrance, that I created based on a fabric of emotions, pictures, scenes, reflections, all seen in the portrait “Miriam” of Woman’s Picture. It is a mirror of what I felt when watching and how I have seen this movie story that Brian tells us. Reading this review on the blog a Muse in Wooden Shoes, I feel very understood. This is a wonderful way to start a day.

I guess it won’t get better today. Thus, I stop writing here and make sure that I get those parcels out. Enjoy your day!

 

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funky and more

October 31st, 2011

There we go: finally I could leave tauerville for a few hours, leave the boxes and bottles, and have time on the computer to write invoices and mails. But before I do so:  Here’s  a treat for you that I share with greatest pleasure. A great article in funky layout with serious text on a project that is dear to my heart: Persolaise discusses Woman’s Picture , Tableau de Parfums and what Brian Pera, the Memphis based movie maker, and me are doing there and why. Persolaise does so in the UK Esprit Magazine.

And I sure love the layout. Thus, if you want have a closer look: I uploaded a copy and leave it on the server for a day or two. Here’s the link to the 1 MB jpg.(loads slow, sorry for that….)

Enjoy!

 

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words on perfumes

September 21st, 2011

I find it utterly difficult to describe perfumes and admire every blogger who can and does. Thus, before digging deeper: Please visit Perfume Smelling Things today and see what Tom made of Miriam and make sure you take your chance to win samples. Click here for his post. Love it!

Here, in Tauerville (if you are on Facebook, the last uploaded picture shows you serious we take tauerville…) we are utterly busy preparing orders before I leave for a week to the states. Right now, we are getting flacons for the PENTACHORDS White labelled and ready. The picture to the left shows you the labels that we folded and that will go around the flacon, that needs to be polished before and that needs a lot label on the back.

Now we are on this state: 150 flacons with the labels and the ribbon on. Ready to be filled with parfum and sealed with the crimping machine. We look at the backside of the white flacon, where a label holds all together.

 

You get an idea what we are doing these days. In between I am trying to answer mails. Like the W.-factor said yesterday: ” You must spend about 40% on your time mailing”. – “Yes”, I replied, “because perfumes is a communication business”.

“I thought it is about smelling”, he wisely came back, and I fear he is wrong.

I feel it is utterly important to talk to you, be it by mail or by blog posts about what I do and why I do it. Perfume business is a communication business, but unfortunately I most often miss the proper words to describe my scents. Thus, we all stick to notes and pictures. And memories. On PerfumeSmellinThings you can watch Wendy today, sharing memories of her grandmother and perfume. This interview with Wendy is just amazing. You can also watch it on Vimeo. It was done by Brian Pera and is part of a series of interviews, supported by Luckyscent.

“Big Personality”: Wendy from brian pera on Vimeo.

Anyhow, I got this mail from a customer who invited me to reply by posting here, in order to have a larger audience. There we go….

The question was: “…. One of the things I like In L’air du desert is the way it breathes. Of course I also like the scent and the way it evolves but what impresses me most is it’s breathing.
What is the secret?…. ”

The answer is difficult. Let me try nevertheless:

If there was a secret: I for sure would not tell you. Perfumers tend to be discreet about their perfumes and what they put in there, why and for what effect. There is actually not a secret to it. It is the construction, the way I create perfumes. I so far never used the term “breath”, I usually use the term “light”. Perfumes need to shine from the inside, you must be able to see right into their hearts. They must, in order to use other words, breath, from the inside to the outside and back. How do you get there: By composing your perfumes in a way that renders them to some extend translucent, transparent, breathing in a way. It is the construction that makes the difference. Construction means: Putting the ingredients in a proper way together.

This is not easy. And one of the most often heard complaints about experimental compositions from my side is: ” Oh my, it is so flat, there is no light inside, it is dull, it is like covered with a suffocating layer. ” From now on I might also say “It does not breath”. This dullness is one of the aspects that I find on a regular basis. It is annoying and needs a lot of creative work and experiments to get over it.

Of course, there is another aspect: it is what you put inside. And here, trust me dear client, the quality and choice of the material makes a difference. It is about how much money you put into a construction, too.

By the way, on a side note: Miriam is the most expensive perfume I created so far. The natural rose, the Mysore sandalwood, the violet leaves extracted in France add up. Actually, it is prohibitively expensive, but I do not care, as long as it breathes and shines.

 

florence

bye and some links

September 7th, 2011

This is a byebye for a day or two. Tomorrow, we will be driving and then I will be standing at the exhibition stand at Pitti Fragranze.

And today, it is last minute preparations day.

Thus, I leave you to reading other blogs and news and there we go with the recommended posts of today:
Elene publishes the second chapter of the Miriam Novelette, and an interview with me on some of the core factors when building Miriam  that you will for sure find interesting. You find here post here.

And Persolaise published the first film interview as part of the blogging round. And you can win a sample on his blog. Please see the interview here on his blog.

I wish you fun reading and watching and send you fragrant greetings.

Today’ s picture taken from the terrace of our hotel room, booked early and amazingly affordable, shows you the sun over the Arno, taken last year from our hotel in Florence, and guess in which hotel we are staying this time. Yes!

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Pera’s universe

September 2nd, 2011

“But not in Pera’s universe”… Elena from PerfumeShrine posted a review, an introduction to Miriam and I invite you, my readers, to visit her blog and leave a comment (anything goes, just a hello). The reasons:

First , her review puts the fragrance into context.

Second, because she runs a draw and you might want to take your chance to win samples and be the first to smell Miriam. Thus, please follow this link to her post.

On another happy note: I visited the hairdresser today, getting all nice and shiny for Florence, and Pitti Fragranze. The result is as always….stunning. I look different, and smell like a gigantic peach thing. Not bad, though. On my way back, I thought in a couple of perfume reviews where the reviewers were comparing fragrances to the scents of shampoo and usually negative.  I am not sure. I feel there are a lot of wonderful shampoo scents out there. So I walked back and realized that making the fragrance for a shampoo might actually be a much bigger challenge than a perfume that you spray on skin.

The shampoo scent needs to be cheap, I mean: real cheap. And it needs to smell nice. I mean really nice. If I had to do a shampoo scent, I would have a hard time. I am glad I do not have to do it. I create my scents always without budget tag in my head. The sky is the limit, almost.

I wish you a lovely weekend. And I thank you all for following me and Brian on our journey through fragrant land and moving pictures.

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an early autumn sunset bottled

August 31st, 2011

Here is a lovely early autumn treat: Une Rose chyprée described by Justin Friedman in Viral Fashion Magazine.

Enjoy this edition online, by following this link to the article.

And while you do this, I start packaging the Tableau de Parfums MIRIAM samples. I got the DVD that Brian made for me as complimentary addition to the samples, introducing the world of Miriam, and other stories in Woman’s Picture.

I see that I can put up for you some pictures on this blog soon.

 

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snippets

August 12th, 2011

The picture of today to the left shows you a hand (mine) with 16 snippets of a 250 gr/m2 paper, from Fischer, called TATAMI natural, with 1.3x volume, coated, with a touch of an ebony color. I cut them to test how thick a pile of 16 cards made from this paper gets. I got samples of various papers, helping to decide which paper to use for the print of the novelette that is accompanying the Miriam fragrance (50 ml size). The novelette is written by Brian Pera and is a lovely 16 double side pages short story, date book like, opening various doors to the world of Miriam. I wanted the paper to fit the world that we are building with the flacon and the rest of the packaging. Thus, I wanted it to be thick, unshiny, slightly coated, and I want it in FSC quality, meaning: Produced in a sustainable manner.

The novelette goes into print today, hoping that I finish the layout of it in the next few hours. It will be one of many entry points into the world of this fragrance. Or the fragrance is the entry point into the world of Woman’s picture, the movies. Like the pentachords are a hand pointing to a new direction, the Tableau de Parfums are pointing into another direction and open up a new world for me. This is part of the fascination being a createur de parfums. One man, many parties. Or a touch more serious: Creativity comes always with change. When you meet a creator doing the same things again and again then chances are good that creativity is gone. Of course, not every party is for everybody. In this context: see Nathan Branch’s post on the upcoming Pentachords.

Another snippet of today: Having prepared and shipped a couple of large orders for retailers (uff!), I will squeeze my time lemon today in order to work a little bit on a couple of ideas. I still have not figured out whether I like the main line of the third fragrance in the Tableau de Parfums series. It is scheduled for September and it tortures me.

Other snippets of this week: I get quite often, on a regular basis, queries for free samples. I never answer them. But I read them, as they are snippets of what humanity offers and they are usually very nice and some are even a sort of standard query: Very eloquent and like a professional PR. In a sense more professional than a lot of PR news that I get because I run this blog.  Thus,  from “cancer in the family and we need a scent of hope, please send”,  to a simple “I cannot afford them” I get everything from everywhere. Yesterday, I got another one. It started with “Dear Madam” . And it ended with an address, without country information. Mission not accomplished.

Some new born bloggers do the same, too; asking for free samples to “expose my brand to their ever growing network of readers”. When I visited one of these bloggers asking for freebies the other day, I found only one post there, on Chanel Bleu.

On a sad note: My external hard disk was broken. I sent it off, hoping for warranty replacement. Actually, the disk was ok, but the USB connection just fell of. I plugged and unplugged this thing about 20 times, as I used the hard disk to store my backups. Thus, not really quality stuff. But the disk worked. It was a 2 Terabyte disk, holding the daily incremental backups of my digital life of about 2 weeks and was always close to full. Now, I got a 3 Terabyte disk and continue backing up my life there. I also back up snippets of my digital (business) life online, using a pay solution. What used to be books and paper and more paper is now bits and bytes and disks. In this sense, the novelette, printed on 16 cards, is actually quite retro. I never thought about it from this perspective.

I wish you a happy Friday.