Patchouli coeur which means”heart of Patchouli” is basically a patchouli that is rich in patchoulol. I am using a quality that is 66% patchoulol. I use it together with “standard” patchouli in the dark fragrance that I described in the past few days. Patchoulol is also called Patchouli Camphor as the heart of patchouli is a very camperous, in a sense it is actually close to incense, with its campherous terpene like aspects. Maybe this is part of the fascination of patchouli. There is a woody dark side and an airy, campherous side and the two complement each other. It is like a constant discourse between these two sides.
Patchouli coeur is even a bit more on the light, airy, musky side. Yes, there is a musky aspect that is stronger and underlined in Patchouli Coeur. I got mine from Ventos, but the description on Robertet‘s internet site is wonderful. It is in French and thus even more mysterious: “Odeur : le cœur de patchouli présente un aspect olfactif très propre, ambré, terreux, patchoulol, oriental.” Thus, it smells clean, of ambergris, earth, patchoulol, and oriental.
I mentioned it before : I use a lot of cocoa in this dark fragrance. The combo Patchouli-cocoa is a great combination. Usually the cocoa is rendered into a gourmand scent. I like my cocoa dirty. The Patchoulol helps me to balance this dark side. The dark woody “heavy” cacao and an airy musky light patchouli talk to each other and complement each other.
Next week, when all goes well, I will close this little series on this upcoming scent. The fragrance runs under the name Dark Passage, and I will present it in a specific context in a few days.
But now, it is time to stop here. We got a delivery coming, 5000 pentagonal boxes, and although they are empty and it is just packed air, carrying them around takes a while.
Enjoy your weekend!
Don’t stop writing about the perfume!
A question: will Dark Passage be the final name? I don’t know what everyone else thinks, but I’m not sure I find it terribly impressive.
Good afternoon, Dariush
Dark Passage is the final name. It refers to and links into film noir.
And no, I will not stop talking about the fragrance, but I want to switch attention from ingredients to form and shape. Sort of… but first things first. Boxes… many of them.
Nice color choice for the pictures Andy; they go well with the ingredients… (P.S. I added a suggetion on the “MIN NY” 17 Feb entry… no need to answer, but just in case you hadn’t thought of it…)
Thanks Khalid
Thanks for your contribution there! highly appreciated.
I picked the colors in a way that they look nice and come with some common element. Thus, it looks a little bit like a series.
Actually, I discussed options to put news/events onto my website. But I did not do it so far, as the site is heavily adjusted Magento, with lots of custom scripts and I want to add features then when I do an update anyhow.
But there is no hurry
Hello Andy!
You got me so hooked on this new project, I can’t wait to see how it turns out.
The notes so far are all in my win list: not too gourmand cocoa, patchouli (I loooove dark and aged patchouli, which plays along nicely with vetiver due to its earthy notes, and with cocoa (see Lutens’ Borneo 1834)) and birch tar (if it smells like leather or burnt rubber, count me in).
I wonder what you will add to make it breathe…
P.S.: I got a Baccarat bottle for Une Rose Chypree bottle, an old Corday Orchidee Bleue one. So beautiful!
Fragrant greetings, Quimerula.
Wow. that bottle sounds like perfect for Une Rose Chyprée to me.
Wow, Andy! This sounds so great… I can’t wait to smell it
oh, film noir, goody!
curious to know how this will be presented… I wonder…….
I think , Breathesgelatin, this is the right question to ask ( referencing i-Robot)
This has been the most tantalising tour of Dark Passage. Cocoa, birch tar, patchouli, vetiver, patchouli, beeswax – this is really exciting territory. Definitely dark, and not necessarily what I would expect from Parfums Tauer (I’m thinking of the shafts of olfactory sunlight that pierce Incense Rosé, Orange Star, L’Eau d’Epices, L’Air du Desert). Will you be counterbalancing all these dark tones with something? Thanks so much for taking us around the makeup of the scent like this. Have a good weekend – I hope it isn’t all boxes.
Hi Andy, Dark Passage sounds very interesting. I love perfumes with cocoa and patch–1969 comes to mind. I know that these perfumes are usually considered more “masculine.” With the addition of birch tar will yours also be considered more on the masculine side–although I know that it is hard to determine what is “masculine” and “feminine” in perfumery.
I don’t think, that patchouli and cocoa would masculine. I really like patchouli, and cocoa too, so I waiting for this perfume exciting
Dark Passage sounds good!
I very much like the name. Though, pronunciation-wise, I prefer to say “passage” in a french manner rather than an english. It just sounds that much better.
I love the name and love the notes. Am really looking forward to this one. The whole film noir thing is fascinating too. I love how you design a total concept for the fragrance.
Curiosity overcomes me … Will Dark Passage be part of another ongoing joint venture with a Film Noir Producer ?
And then, Dark Passage to where ? To Hell ? To a Netherland between Heaven and Hell ? Of course, you may prefer to be mum about all these fantasies …
And perhaps my questions are too forward because already you are sharing with us many of your projects and plans, to the everyday delight of reading your website. Thank you.
Fragrant greetings,Claude
I found your comment very interesting: There are different Tauer’s. Those who followed my earliest fragrance development steps have seen a darker, dirtier Tauer than the tauer of the ZETA and other lighter, or rather: Brighter scents. Yes, I balance the dark tones using an orris root line that brings in some vibrancy, I think
Fragrant greetings, Ursula
I will try to answer your questions in the coming days. I hope that it is not a Dark Passage to hell, but a Dark Passage into a fascinating, thrilling world of passion and love and life.
Thank you for your questions and enjoy your Sunday!
Me too, TimeaZsofia and Jen, I think cocoa and Patchouli are not feminine nor masculine. Actually, I do not like the concept of feminine and masculine scents anyhow. Some scents may be perfect on a woman, although they are more on what some would call masculine side. So why bother
The way the conversation of scents goes back and forth between dark/light, and male/female – I think the scents themselves have a good chuckle at US!!
The Moody Blues “Stepping in a Slide Zone“ – you will be diggin` this, and then trying to get it out of your head!! 
Dark Passage is a wonderful name.
Whai a name !!!! <3 …love it !
Andy, patchouli&cocoa, that sounds so great, keep creating with that freedom&heart cause you’ll produce only beauty. Im wearing le marroc pour elle now and I can feel everything detail. Anxious to meet Dark Passages!
Sorry for the language mistakes! Im from Buenos Aires.
Im going to New York in 20′days. I see that I can buy your perfumes at Min. If any one knows another place Ill be happy to know!