Before we take the retrospective scalpel again and do some EAU D’ÉPICES heart inspection: here is a note on an upcoming draw in our upcoming newsletter.
Yesterday, after having boxed some 100 flacons of Orange Star, I managed to finish a draft version 1 of the newsletter 1 that I schedule for publication September 15, after Pitti. This newsletter is a bit a pet of mine these days, allowing me to communicate beyond the daily business as I do it on the blog. And maybe I will reach some readers who do not have time to read all my blog posts. I guess those might just have missed this post, though.
Anyhow: I decided that I will make a DRAW among the subscribers of the newsletter, October 1 2010. I will pick two winners from the active subscribers list and they get a perfume, a full bottle, boxed as we sell them, at their choice from my range. But it is only a draw for those having registered for the newsletter. If you haven’t subscribed and want to join in: Here’s the link to do so (click here). If you are subscribed already: No need to do anything.
And we continue with a short inspection of the floral heart. We have discussed ORANGE BLOSSOM two days ago. I used orange blossom absolute and jasmine absolute as flowers in the middle; and -by the way- orange blossom absolute IS expensive. Jasmine absolute is cheap in comparison. Anyhow. The challenge with floral hearts is: They do not last and need to be fixed. And you should announce them, building bridges from the initial head notes. Like a little red carpet telling folks that is worth picking up the camera and wait for the beauties appearing on their way to the stage where they would bloom for an hour or so.
I used RED MANDARIN essential oil as a bridge into the floral heart, also to soften the spices a bit. This essential citrus oil has excellent lasting quality and I broaden it up with Methylpamplemousse, a molecule that smells a little bit an effect like a GREEN SILVER CITRUS. It supports citrus oils, makes them last longer, and brings in a bit of a vibrancy and lightness. Mandarine is the only citrus that I use because I do not want to distract from the core axis: Spices, orange blossom, incense, woods.
But wait, wait: There is another aspect…One thing that I changed two years ago from a previous version: I added a hint of a green leave, and a white flower note. If you want you can call it a green lily of the valley trace, but I would not go that far. Just call it a green spot, that sits there to set an ACCENT and a floral dress to highlight the orange blossom. Made of Undecavertol and Lilial and some Ionones (green leaves, flowers, lily of the valley, powdery floral sweetness) it is a spotlight that lets you see the star on the central stage. And the star shines a bit brigher and longer…
Today’s picture: an orange blossom and a lot of green.
Once again, thanks for a fascinating post, Andy. You always manage to make the ‘nuts and bolts’ side of perfumery interesting.
Since you raised the subject of ‘fixing’ today, perhaps you could write a few lines on whether you use any synthetic musks (Galaxolide, Ambrettolide etc) which supposedly have good fixative properties.
Hi Andy, thanks for getting me back on track regarding all the components of Eau d’epices. I think in addition to the cinnamon it must be the Egyptian orange blossom absolute that is so amazing and very sensuous! (Did you use any of it in Maroc pour elle?) As the day progresses there is no doubt that Eau d’epices is anything but foodie–it is spicy, incense-y, floral but a “dirty” floral and very, very addictive.
Good morning to you, Persolaise
I do not use any synthetic musks in the real sense. No Galaxolide, not Ambrettolide or alike. In none of my scents….Next week, we will have a closer look at fixation (I hope). Enjoy your day!
Greetings to you, Jen and thank you for your appreciation. Actually, there is no orange blossom in Le Maroc pour elle, but a heavy dose of Mandarin essential oil. This is the link , together with the jasmine, although the jasmine in Le Maroc is much higher dosed. Very much more….
Dear Andy, is Interesting post, and interesting changes in EAU D’ÉPICES, I certainly have a subscription, and I still have hope:-)
I can’t wait to order some of your samples… everything sounds so wonderful!
Hi Andy, sorry to post so much on this topic but I’m trying to get to the bottom of the “shared something” in the two. So you’d say that the Mandarin essential oil is what both Maroc pour elle and Eau d’epices share? I do see (and love) how the jasmine is in a league of its own in the Maroc but had to ask since you said that the orange blossom absolute is a “masculine jasmine” and maybe that could have been what I was smelling. Either way, they are both absolutely beautiful! (And I should add they are nothing like each other, despite that one bit –or note-that I can’t seem to put my finger on.)
Yes it is wonderful. I haven’t left much feedback since I got my first teaser set, Andy gets so much praise all the time anyway, of course rightfully so. Obviously I’ve had a great time getting to know the scents, growing especially fond of “L’air…”, just as so many others have done before me. I have a difficult time with the opening of Rêverie, mostly because of an unhealthy dosation of gin quite long ago, that still leaves traces. It’s a shame because the drydown of this perfume is really one of a kind.
I’ve been meaning to buy a bottle of no 02, but I’ve become so attached to having many Tauer experiences at hand at once, so I should get another teaser, err discovery set. Plus my curiosity for the creations yet to smell needs to be mended.
Even though I scarcely write anything here, I’ve been following the blog almost daily since I first came upon it. I feel I must join in with the rest of this choir and show my appreciation for you sharing your thoughts so frequently here Andy. Especially these posts about the creative process and the creations are good to read. It bridges to so many other creative occupations in so many senses. Relations and proportions. Using the same ingredients but altering the proportions inbetween will give us a completely different result. And of course, the finished creation is something more than the sum of it’s parts.
Oh and I love the metaphor about spices being a magnifying glass…
I love Maroc pour elle so I know I will also like Eau d’epices. Your beautiful description sounds like another gorgeous Tauer fragrance.
Already imagining what it could smell like!
OK, Jen: Let’s dig a bit deeper into the comparison. The two fragrances share a bit of lemongrass, there is also incense in the Le Maroc (the same quality) and there is also some Coriander in Le Maroc.
But, althoug some of the ingredients may be the same: the scents are quite different and the amount of the various ingredients and their role differs….
Well, well, Phyllis… the two are very different. I strongly recommend testing when the fragrance is ready!
And Pär: Thank you so much. Indeed the final result is always more than what you would think based on the formula. The scent is more than the sum, indeed.
Thank you for bringing this aspect up.
Reading your explanations – first of orange blossom, then of spices, then of fixing and bridging – is like having Eau d’Epices do a little shake and shimmy action. What a tease!
The the technical and intellectual description of what it takes to achieve the emotional effect is really interesting. Thanks for sharing the process.
Methinks you need a winter cottage in Florida due to your love of citrus – and the citrus farmers would love your fruity fondness too!
Jasmine is cheaper than white-flower sister Orange Blossom, you say – is Jasmine `dirtier` than her rich sister, maybe because `She Works Hard for the Money `??? 
(Donna Summer)
Hi Andy,
I’m really enjoying reading your posts on L’Eau d’Epices. Thank you!
Lovely post, once again! I sprayed myself this morning, 4 healthy sprays of course, of EdE before I left for work. 12 hours later now, I’m still smelling it distinctly! I’m still getting orange blossom, jasmine and a bit of spice in the late drydown. Really, Andy, it’s superb. I can’t wait to compare my sample to the final product.
Were the additions recent, or would my several-month-old sample have made the cut for that?
the more you reveal, the more I get anxious at getting to try EdE
thanks, Andy
‘ a floral dress to highlight the orange blossom’ … its a great description! i can see how you put love n affection in making perfumes or flowers, smells in general.
Devon: the changes are longer ago than a year, your version is the real stuff. perfectly matured over a year…can’t get better than that!
Hotlanta Linda, good point! Ms. Jasmine indeed works hard for her money
Chris, of course, the tease is part of the deal here
SAE: Thank you! I am glad that I can share, also my affection.