Tauer Perfumes

creative day

September 3rd, 2010

Uff. It is Friday, this week’s big shipment is ready in front of the house for pick-up by Schenker, and I can worry about other things, such as my hair or creation of new perfumes. I decided that Friday afternoon will be my “creative day”, translating into at least 4 hours working on fragrances.

Otherwise, if not scheduling it like that: No chance. Too much going on….But first things first: Newsletter final texts, pictures for the shop. I will hit the essential oils in the afternoon before hitting downtown.

Today’s creative challenge: Ambreine. I get mine from Biolandes in France. It is a natural substance, isolated in a few steps from Cistus ladaniferus, to be precise: solvent extraction of  the concrète. It is not easy to work with, as it is -in all its beauty- very quickly dominating an entire composition. I want to use it in a mix where I just need its dry woody incense effect, without the ambergris part. And it has a harsh side.  Let us see how we can soften it. I guess I will bring in some green contrast. We will see.

I feel, perfumery is very much about light and darkness, about contrasts, about effects…I need to think a bit more on contrasts in perfumery.

And with this I wish you a great weekend, and here is your reading recommendation for it:
Open Letters Monthly, on “difficult pleasure”, featuring among other things Lonestar Memories. Enjoy!

(picture of today: A cut out from a larger photo taken last weekend, stones and water in sunlight)

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10 Responses to “creative day”

  1. Marcin says:


    First of all want you to know that I’ve just published quite a big post about you and your perfumery art on my blog perfumowyblog.wordpress.com, which is the only polish blog dedicated to male perfumes and one of the few polish perfume blogs in general.
    Reading your very intetersting thoughts about perfumery and perfume making I’d like to ask you if you use in your perfumes any ingredients which are not directly connected with odor giving, but they have other influence on the fragrance i.e. any anti agening preservatives against ageing etc. ??

    I wish you lovely weekend too!

  2. Andy says:

    Dear Marcin
    I will check the website in a minute. But here is the answer to your question: No, I only used fragrant materials for the purpose of using their smell in a mixture. No colors, not other ingredients except for water, ethanol and Bitrex (denaturant for the ethanol, preventing folks from drinking my juices ) 😉
    Have a great evening.

  3. Marcin says:

    That’s interesting. Water? What is the percentage of water in your perfumes? What is it for ?

  4. hotlanta linda says:

    What happens/do you think of amber mixed w/ saffron? I ask due to whiffing sachets supposedly scented single-note style w/ each fragrance eons ago! Nice review, as always deserved!! 🙂 I notice iris is getting as popular as woody essences – any chance your Orris could have a second come-ing, in spite of regulations?? Music for your refreshing photo – “Silver Stream“ from Fleetwood Mac! 🙂

  5. jen says:

    Hi Andy, Yes, I also second Linda’s question as your Orris has a cult following and for those of us who never got to smell it, this would be cool! But getting back to ambriene, I look forward to hearing what you are going to pair it with. I take it the ambriene is the “dark” and you are looking for a “light”? Have a great week-end!

  6. Andy says:

    Hi Marcin
    this is simple: It is part of the alcohol. something like ca. 5% in it is water…

    Good morning Hotlanta Linda
    and fragrant greetings from Zurich!
    I am not sure about amber and saffron…never came across this mix…

    And to you and Jen:
    The orris limited edition is a little bit like a ghost. It was -if you so want- an oudh fragrance, an iris root scent, a leather, a rose…
    Chances for it reappearing are close to zero. But the world is large and never say never 😉

  7. jen says:

    Hi Andy, well, since you leave us with a teeny bit of hope my fingers (and toes) are crossed that Orris will reemerge–it sounds awesome…and since it is a ghost of sorts–you know Halloween is just around the corner. 🙂 Have a great evening!

  8. A*on says:

    Hi Andy, a little hint about contrast, light and darkness. If you transform your thoughts to photography, you’ll cross over Ansel Adams work and the “zone system”. He’s the master of contrast control. I could imagine, that some of his approach, could be a good source of inspiration for a perfumer.
    By the way: “Photo” would be a sophisticated name, for a black & white fragrance;-)
    a lot of autumn light

  9. hotlanta linda says:

    I agree w/ Jen!!!!! Maybe you can make your `ghost` morph into another `angel`, garbed in Brilliantly colored attire!! ( We KNOW you CAN, it is just the inspiration that is needed!!) 🙂

  10. sae says:

    thank you for the link, quite intersting. lonestar …minty top notes..i havent felt like that way but yes it gets sweet 🙂 wondering how your coming perfume d be like..

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