Before we address some of the TECHNICAL DETAILS and the WHY: Here’s the factual list of spices in EAU D’ÉPICES:
Cardamom, coriander, clove and cinnamon bark essential oil. Lemongrass, which is also on the ingredient’s list, is not what I would consider a spice. And it fulfills a different role, too.
As I am using synthetics and naturals: Some of the spices are pumped up…Coriander is pumped up with a bit of Linalool; this molecule is present in coriander essential oil anyhow at about 60-80% and by adding a bit of it directly you pronounce the coriander note. It extends the woody line of coriander, softens it a bit and leads over to flowers, like giving a hand to the flowers and pointing in the direction of the woods with the other hand.
The cinnamon bark essential oil is naturally mostly cinnamaldehyde ( about 60%), with some eugenol (about 5-10%) and cinnamylalcohol. These are all IFRA and EU Cosmetic law regulated substances. The limiting factor is cinnamaldehyde which is a dermal sensitizer, thus a molecule to be careful with. IFRA limits of cinnamaldehyde are 0.05% in the final mix. We are in EAU D’ÉPICES at 0.045%, thus making use of it at almost max. concentration. Here we have an example for the effects of regulation: I do not produce fragrances with higher cinnamon bark concentrations. The cinnamon essential oil is pumped up with cinnamylalcohol and a molecule called linalylcinnamate, which acts like an eye shadow, making the cinnamon bigger and a bit brighter.
Why spices? Because the thing is called Eau d’épices. In this scent the spices are very dominant and present. The spices are together one of the main axis of this particular perfume. They are like an entire book volume of about 4 volumes being: Spices, Flowers, Incense, Woods.
On a more general base: I use a lot of spices in my scents because spices do the same thing like aldehydes. When used in small amounts they amplify other notes, set accents and bring in light. A hint of cinnamon bark lifts a rose bouquet, for instance, and makes the rose shine and last. In a sense, spices are magnifying glasses.
The picture shows you a mix of spices in a pan that I use when making my own curry from scratch.
And do not forget: if you want to win an Eau d’épices: comment over there (click here).
Hi Andy, I like how you explain that spices when used in small amounts help boost other fragrances (such as the cinnamon and the rose). This is the way I wish other perfumers would approach these spices. I have smelled Eau d’epices and really liked it a lot. But to be honest many times when people say there is a cardamon or clove or coriander in a perfume I usually get worried because other perfumes tend to make those notes overpower the others (or maybe it is just my skin). Clove and pepper in particular are hard ones for me. But clearly when you are using these spices to enhance rather than dominate that’s where the magic begins!
Dear Andy, Excellent post! So, already a dozen, in a head it is probable, already both the thirteenth and the fourteenth and… ?
Dear Vladimir
I wish I had more time these days… these days my head is working on 16
Dear Jen
Oh, you are one of the few who got a chance to smell it. Glad you liked it. I read a while ago on PerfumeSmellinThings by Tom that he thought, it smells like nothing out there (in a positive sense). And hence, I guess, it is difficult to explain in words.
The magic is in the mix and maybe it is also in what you do not use and leave out….
Thanks so much for this post, Andy. As far as I’m aware, no-one else out there in the perfumery blogosphere is as generous as you are with real, meaningful, useful information.
Oh, it sounds divine, I can’t wait to smell it. The more cinnamon, the better, as far as I’m concerned!
thanks for your generosity in sharing. i love the information in your posts, it’s so interesting for me, just starting on a path of mixing scents.
I had no idea that spices gave a similar lift to aldehydes, that’s interesting to know. I love a dash of clove in my fragrances.
Dear Dionne
indeed, I love a bit of clove in my scents, too! And by the way: Strawberries and a bit of finely crushed black pepper is heaven!
Dear Stacy
good luck and have fun! The first steps are the hardest…
Mmmmm strawberries and a dash of black pepper…that actually sounds good! I might have to reconsider my opinion on pepper…
This list of spice/herbs is a potpourri/sachet waiting to happen! And if your head is working on scent #16, your inspiration is BACK!!
Music – The Manhatten Transfer`s “Spice of Life“!!!
Yes, Hotlanta Linda, it WILL happen and the Manhattan Transfer’s is perfect! Thank you!
Jen, yes you need to!
Hello Andy–I won a rose chypree and you included a discovery set with it during your advent event; the Epices was absolutely wonderful. Just a warm, sexy, inviting, near and far scent. Truly delicious without evoking food. Evocative and present. I’ve been waiting for this to be available, so I’m very excited.
Be still my heart!
Thank you for the technical info! It’s so intriguing to learn about the processes, especially this one.
I feel like breaking out in song with my own cheesy rendition of “My Favorite Things” from The Sound of Music!
Let me clear my throat. This is dedicated to Andy.
Raindrops on orange blossom, and coriander pumped with linalool,
Sweet-smelling cardamom, and bright cinnamalalcohol,
Cloves and lemongrass to make my heart sing,
These are a few of my favorite things!
When the cinnamon bites,
When the coriander zings,
When I’m feeling sad,
I simply remember my favorite things,
And then I don’t feel so bad!
Alright, enough of my Ode to Eau d’Epices
I’m off to scrub off my floral aldehydes and relish a spritz of my hoarded sample of EdE and trapise around the house singing my new “favorite” song… 
Hi Andy,
I am in my sample of Eau d’epices today after the blog discussion yesterday. It is an overcast rainy day and wow is Eau d’epices what the doctor ordered.
I totally agree with Meg that is it delicious without evoking food.
Have you done this without any floral? The whole composition is spices only?
My nose is not trained enough to understand what the addictive underlying part of the drydown is–must be the cinnamon but it is truly special and clearly a Tauer scent. I don’t get much clove or any of the “sharper spices (it must be acting as an enhancer as you mentioned before) and on me the cinnamon doesn’t bite, instead it almost smolders as if something was in the oven.
Devon, kuddos for such a fun tribute song!
Oh Meg, I completely forgot about it: Yes, you are right: I presented the eau d’épices to a few, very few and I showed it during my advent event in Zurich. It took a while until it was finally bottled
Greetings, Devon and kudos for your song: I am blushing
And please stay tuned to more revelations on the core and the base of this scent…
Greetings, Jen, Great! On the flowers (floral): See my post of yesterday. The floral heart is basically orange blossom and jasmine. I will continue posting more tech details and axis of this fragrance in the coming days….
Hi Andy, Thanks. You know I could have sworn there is some jasmine in there. It’s gorgeous!