Tauer Perfumes

News Tagged ‘birch tar’

cuir de russie parfume

this stuff brings back memories

July 20th, 2011

There is not much you can do: Perfume is subjective. What is gloriously shining on your skin is bääh! for somebody else. No way to convince that bääh! is not bääh! But there is hope that (at least!) a bääh! perfume is recognized as a creative master piece. It will remain bääh! , but in the category of masterpieces.

Yesterday, I felt like Cuir de Russie, after a grey and wet day, and I reached for my perfume strength masterpiece in a bottle from Chanel. I love it. It is a masterpiece and a perfume that reaches back in time. So I went to bed with it, and I realized (again) how different these perfumes where, back then. Although perfume strength, it was not particularly strong, and you could feel how it was not glued together with the superglues such as Okoumal that fix any banality for eternity.

And it speaks a different language. It is much less loud. It is like reading a newspaper from the twenties and comparing it to tabloid of today. And then, suddenly, you realize what we have gone missing, while getting a lot of new treasures. So, I am totally taken, reading the lines of this old, past, fragrant story, when the W.-factor comes by and goes like “Bääh, I don’t like it!”

“But it is Cuir de Russie, perfume strength, a masterpiece. A classic!”, I go.

“I don’t like it”, the .-factor replied. “But look at this wonderful birchtar line. That’s like in Lonestar Memories, and then the animalic notes!”, I try …

“I do not like it, it smells odd!”

“Well, I guess, in a sense it does.

But it’s a masterpiece.”, I finally add in, and “yes, I can see that” is as good as it got yesterday.

I gave up, went to bed, fell into sleep, remembering a line from Woman’s Picture, where Miriam says “this stuff brings back memories”. Actually, this was one line that I found important to keep in mind when I saw the movie the first time. Miriam is a perfume that brings back memories, too. Memories of a time when perfumes were different. Own memories of times when we were different. I started remembering how I used to smell Cuir de Russie, going back in time, trying to understand how perfumes were done a century ago. In the mean time, I moved on, but I still love to go back to the classics, be it vintage versions or not. So much better than much, much, much else that drolls  around in pink bottles.

Sometimes, I feels good to go back in memory and look into the mirror of past days.

Today’s job: Filter Miriam. Open the 10 liter aluminum bottles and filter the juice. Everytime I filter a new juice for the first time it means a lot to me. It is, together with the first flacons poured, a moment where the work of months or years comes to an end.

stonesandwater

creative day

September 3rd, 2010

Uff. It is Friday, this week’s big shipment is ready in front of the house for pick-up by Schenker, and I can worry about other things, such as my hair or creation of new perfumes. I decided that Friday afternoon will be my “creative day”, translating into at least 4 hours working on fragrances.

Otherwise, if not scheduling it like that: No chance. Too much going on….But first things first: Newsletter final texts, pictures for the shop. I will hit the essential oils in the afternoon before hitting downtown.

Today’s creative challenge: Ambreine. I get mine from Biolandes in France. It is a natural substance, isolated in a few steps from Cistus ladaniferus, to be precise: solvent extraction of  the concrète. It is not easy to work with, as it is -in all its beauty- very quickly dominating an entire composition. I want to use it in a mix where I just need its dry woody incense effect, without the ambergris part. And it has a harsh side.  Let us see how we can soften it. I guess I will bring in some green contrast. We will see.

I feel, perfumery is very much about light and darkness, about contrasts, about effects…I need to think a bit more on contrasts in perfumery.

And with this I wish you a great weekend, and here is your reading recommendation for it:
Open Letters Monthly, on “difficult pleasure”, featuring among other things Lonestar Memories. Enjoy!

(picture of today: A cut out from a larger photo taken last weekend, stones and water in sunlight)