Before we take the retrospective scalpel again and do some EAU D’ÉPICES heart inspection: here is a note on an upcoming draw in our upcoming newsletter.

Yesterday, after having boxed some 100 flacons of Orange Star, I managed to finish a draft version 1 of the newsletter 1 that I schedule for publication September 15, after Pitti. This newsletter is a bit a pet of mine these days, allowing me to communicate beyond the daily business as I do it on the blog. And maybe I will reach some readers who do not have time to read all my blog posts. I guess those might just have missed this post, though.

Anyhow: I decided that I will make a DRAW among the subscribers of the newsletter, October 1 2010. I will pick two winners from the active subscribers list and they get a perfume,  a full bottle, boxed as we sell them, at their choice from my range. But it is only a draw for those having registered for the newsletter. If you haven’t subscribed and want to join in: Here’s the link to do so (click here). If you are subscribed already: No need to do anything.

And we continue with a short inspection of the floral heart. We have discussed ORANGE BLOSSOM two days ago.  I used orange blossom absolute and jasmine absolute as flowers in the middle; and -by the way- orange blossom absolute IS expensive. Jasmine absolute is cheap in comparison. Anyhow. The challenge with floral hearts is: They do not last and need to be fixed. And you should announce them, building bridges from the initial head notes. Like a little red carpet telling folks that is worth picking up the camera and wait for the beauties appearing on their way to the stage where they would bloom for an hour or so.

I used RED MANDARIN essential oil as a bridge into the floral heart,  also to soften the spices a bit. This essential citrus oil has excellent lasting quality and I broaden it up with Methylpamplemousse, a molecule that smells a little bit an effect like a GREEN SILVER CITRUS. It supports citrus oils, makes them last longer, and brings in a bit of a vibrancy and lightness. Mandarine is the only citrus that I use because I do not want to distract from the core axis: Spices, orange blossom, incense, woods.

But wait, wait: There is another aspect…One thing that I changed two years ago from a previous version: I added a hint of a green leave, and a white flower note. If you want you can call it a green lily of the valley trace, but I would not go that far. Just call it a green spot, that sits there to set an ACCENT and a floral dress to highlight the orange blossom. Made of Undecavertol and Lilial and some Ionones (green leaves, flowers, lily of the valley, powdery floral sweetness) it is a spotlight that lets you see the star on the central stage. And the star shines a bit brigher and longer…

Today’s picture: an orange blossom and a lot of green.

Before we address some of the TECHNICAL DETAILS and the WHY: Here’s the factual list of spices in EAU D’ÉPICES:

Cardamom, coriander, clove  and cinnamon bark essential oil. Lemongrass, which is also on the ingredient’s list, is not what I would consider a spice. And it fulfills a different role, too.

As I am using synthetics and naturals: Some of the spices are pumped up…Coriander is pumped up with a bit of Linalool; this molecule is present in coriander essential oil anyhow at about 60-80% and by adding a bit of it directly you pronounce the coriander note.  It extends the woody line of coriander, softens it a bit and leads over to flowers, like giving a hand to the flowers and pointing in the direction of the woods with the other hand.

The cinnamon bark essential oil is naturally mostly cinnamaldehyde ( about 60%), with some eugenol (about 5-10%) and cinnamylalcohol. These are all IFRA and EU Cosmetic law regulated substances. The limiting factor is cinnamaldehyde which is a dermal sensitizer, thus a molecule to be careful with. IFRA limits of cinnamaldehyde are 0.05% in the final mix. We are in EAU D’ÉPICES at 0.045%, thus making use of it at almost max. concentration. Here we have an example for the effects of regulation: I do not produce fragrances with higher cinnamon bark concentrations. The cinnamon essential oil is pumped up with cinnamylalcohol and a molecule called linalylcinnamate, which acts like an eye shadow, making the cinnamon bigger and a bit brighter.

Why spices? Because the thing is called Eau d’épices. In this scent the spices are very dominant and present. The spices are together one of the main axis of this particular perfume. They are like an entire book volume of about 4 volumes being: Spices, Flowers, Incense, Woods.

On a more general base: I use a lot of spices in my scents because spices do the same thing like aldehydes. When used in small amounts they amplify other notes, set accents and bring in light. A hint of cinnamon bark lifts a rose bouquet, for instance, and makes the rose shine and last. In a sense, spices are magnifying glasses.

The picture shows you a mix of spices in a pan that I use when making my own curry from scratch.

And do not forget: if you want to win an Eau d’épices: comment over there (click here).

From Ape to Gentleman has a nice clipping and reviews on Tauer. Thus, I am doing it for the second time this week: Enjoy Chris’ writing on Tauer… by clicking here you get to the “Ape to Gentleman” page.

A great name for a website: Ape to Gentleman…

Now, a few lines on the EAU D’ÉPICES…today is the second day in a row with EAU D’ÉPICES (wearing it over night). This perfume  features as one (key) ingredient: Orange blossom, from Egypt. I am using the orange blossom absolute. Maybe you have never smelled this ingredient in its pure form: It is like sniffing the flower, but with the natural indole content pumped up, concentrated, with the woody and natural musk lines amplified. Actually, pure orange blossom absolute is somewhat disturbingly dirty and much less citrus than you’d expect. Neroli, which is the steam distilled orange flower concentrate, if you want, captures the nice and shiny aspect of orange flowers. The absolute, which is an organic solvent based concentrate, captures the animalic, love potion side.

Maybe, in a sense, orange blossom absolute is the “male jasmine”. I turns on mating instincts and transforms the gentleman back to ape in about 30 seconds.

OK, maybe a bit exaggerated. It takes 60 seconds.

Like most flower extracts it is a middle, heart, note and doesn’t last too long on skin. To fix it and to prevent it entering into foully territory is one of the challenges when working with this real stuff. And you need to hide the indole a bit. Please, do not ask me why you find jasmine absolute in the formula, too. I guess it is for the ladies…

I answered a couple of questions for a newspaper article the other day,  in detail and with having some thinking done, on IFRA, and how IFRA affects perfumers and perfumery.

I remembered this article in press (not published yet, I think), when I read the comments yesterday. And I thought a lot about it while cycling, thus we end up with another hard to digest post, but someone needs to speak out: IFRA should not be blamed.

Please visit IFRA’s site and have a look at who is IFRA. You can do so on their home page and then you will see that it is regular members (companies) and regional bodies (and no, zero, nada, niente third level supporting members such as small producers). You will find out that IFRA does not make laws or anything that anybody is forced by law  to oblige. IFRA recommends and industry follows the recommendations and consumers buy.  This IS important, because you should not blame the group coming up with recommendations, but the guy following them.  And the guy having an interest in the recommendations.  And, if you want to speak to industry, the best way to do so is via money and via speaking to them  directly and about them,  but not IFRA.

Thus, do not blame IFRA. Do not bash IFRA, IFRA is just the bag shown to you, making sure you do not hit the donkey.

And then, if you live in the EU, please visit the EU commission’s website and you will see that this is where IFRA recommendations end up being formed into (proposals) for laws. EU regulations and laws do not fall from heaven. Again: Do not blame IFRA, it is the guys and girls you send to Brussels making the laws. And, if you want to speak to politicians, the best way to do so is by speaking out to them and about them and by explaining them why they destroy part of the cultural heritage of Europe. I wish so much my fellow bloggers would stop talking about the IFRA bag and start talking about the EU law makers and the donkeys.

Thank you for reading this post.

And, to celebrate a 100% EU law conform perfume that I will show officially in September  10, at Pitti Fragranze in Florence:  Here is a little draw. Leave a comment of any kind, and enter the draw for a full flacon of fragrance No. 12 EAU D’ÉPICES, or a little consolation price (a discovery set, containing 5 scents of your choice). I will not comment every comment, but sure read it.
========ADDED: AUGUST 23 2010=======
THIS DRAW IS OVER. The winners are:
Consolation prize

Elena (cm….@yahoo.com)
Full bottle of Eau d’épices:
Elisa (elisa.g….@gmail.com)

Thank you to all of you who commented. If you wish to add your thoughts on the topics of this post: You are very welcome.

DRAW CONDITIONS: The draw is international. Everybody can participate by sending in a comment. If you wish to comment without entering the draw: Please say so in your comment. The winners will be picked using random.org in the coming days. If the draw is over, we will announce it here on this blog post. Winners will be contacted by e-mail, thus leave a correct e-mail. By commenting you accept that we might contact you by e-mail in order to communicate about the result of this draw. We will not store your e-mail, use your e-mail  nor forward your e-mail and other data to any third party. For more details on your privacy: See our privacy information page.

Picture: Medieval staircase going upwards to the light.

I could not resist: a flacon picture again. I took it yesterday, while pouring Eau d’épices into 214 flacons in my studio. Outside it was all rainy and grey, but the grey daylight was transformed into a golden beam, shining onto the flacons in quite a spectacular way. The only arrangement I had to do: Put the flacon in a way that allows reading the brand logo. Otherwise: No nothing and no photoshop (except for size reduction).

Today, I need to finish putting the o-ring on the naked necks and then we engage in pouring Rose chypree into the new flacon. While doing so: more time to fall into deep bottle pouring stasis and think about new scents, like COMBAT ZONE, SEX IN GRAUBÜNDEN, and other funny ideas that come up during the day or in the comments section on this blog. Actually, quite often the comments are more thrilling then the post. On combat zone: see yesterday’s comments; you know that there IS a Swiss army scent on the market? Yes, there is; actually, there are a few…..

Before I fall into stasis: Wishing you all a lovely weekend. Enjoy!

After yesterday’s comments on folks biting nails and sweating in anticipation of scent No12-EAU D’ÉPICES (which will, by the way, hit the shelves in 50 ml flacons, as part of the CLASSICS line, after September), I feel sort of motivated to pour and crimp No. 12.  Yesterday, the spicy water got a filtration finish. Not much to filter, though!

There are fragrances that are a pain to filter. It is the resins like Tonka resin, or vanilla CO2 extracts, or concrètes like rose concrète that a trouble makers. Rose concrète is a good example: This is the stuff that you (they) produce by extracting rose petals with organic solvents. These organic solvents dissolve the aromatic molecules and a lot of natural waxes out from the rose petals. When the organic solvent is distilled off, the concrète, a waxy resinous mix is what you end with. This concrète can then be extracted with ethanol, leading to the absolute, leaving the waxes off, and some of the fragrant molecules. Hence, the concrète is sort of closer to the original than the absolute.And so is the CO2 extract. A concrète is heaven to smell, but hell to work with, except for soaps or solid perfumes or perfumes on oil base.  Actually, a rose soap with rose concrète would be soap heaven, for sure…

Anyhow: The scent No 12 is ready, sitting in its 12.5 liter can waiting to be pushed (I have a 10 liter manual liquid dispenser for that) into flacons. The picture, by the way, shows you a detail shot, looking from the bottom upwards – kind of a flacon perspective-  into the crimping mechanism of my manual flanging (crimping) tool. The little metal dents fix the pump onto the glass of the flacon. Overall: A wonderful, highly repetitive work. Perfect for a meditative day dream on an oriental carpet with lots and lots of spices.