Before we take the retrospective scalpel again and do some EAU D’ÉPICES heart inspection: here is a note on an upcoming draw in our upcoming newsletter.

Yesterday, after having boxed some 100 flacons of Orange Star, I managed to finish a draft version 1 of the newsletter 1 that I schedule for publication September 15, after Pitti. This newsletter is a bit a pet of mine these days, allowing me to communicate beyond the daily business as I do it on the blog. And maybe I will reach some readers who do not have time to read all my blog posts. I guess those might just have missed this post, though.

Anyhow: I decided that I will make a DRAW among the subscribers of the newsletter, October 1 2010. I will pick two winners from the active subscribers list and they get a perfume,  a full bottle, boxed as we sell them, at their choice from my range. But it is only a draw for those having registered for the newsletter. If you haven’t subscribed and want to join in: Here’s the link to do so (click here). If you are subscribed already: No need to do anything.

And we continue with a short inspection of the floral heart. We have discussed ORANGE BLOSSOM two days ago.  I used orange blossom absolute and jasmine absolute as flowers in the middle; and -by the way- orange blossom absolute IS expensive. Jasmine absolute is cheap in comparison. Anyhow. The challenge with floral hearts is: They do not last and need to be fixed. And you should announce them, building bridges from the initial head notes. Like a little red carpet telling folks that is worth picking up the camera and wait for the beauties appearing on their way to the stage where they would bloom for an hour or so.

I used RED MANDARIN essential oil as a bridge into the floral heart,  also to soften the spices a bit. This essential citrus oil has excellent lasting quality and I broaden it up with Methylpamplemousse, a molecule that smells a little bit an effect like a GREEN SILVER CITRUS. It supports citrus oils, makes them last longer, and brings in a bit of a vibrancy and lightness. Mandarine is the only citrus that I use because I do not want to distract from the core axis: Spices, orange blossom, incense, woods.

But wait, wait: There is another aspect…One thing that I changed two years ago from a previous version: I added a hint of a green leave, and a white flower note. If you want you can call it a green lily of the valley trace, but I would not go that far. Just call it a green spot, that sits there to set an ACCENT and a floral dress to highlight the orange blossom. Made of Undecavertol and Lilial and some Ionones (green leaves, flowers, lily of the valley, powdery floral sweetness) it is a spotlight that lets you see the star on the central stage. And the star shines a bit brigher and longer…

Today’s picture: an orange blossom and a lot of green.

From Ape to Gentleman has a nice clipping and reviews on Tauer. Thus, I am doing it for the second time this week: Enjoy Chris’ writing on Tauer… by clicking here you get to the “Ape to Gentleman” page.

A great name for a website: Ape to Gentleman…

Now, a few lines on the EAU D’ÉPICES…today is the second day in a row with EAU D’ÉPICES (wearing it over night). This perfume  features as one (key) ingredient: Orange blossom, from Egypt. I am using the orange blossom absolute. Maybe you have never smelled this ingredient in its pure form: It is like sniffing the flower, but with the natural indole content pumped up, concentrated, with the woody and natural musk lines amplified. Actually, pure orange blossom absolute is somewhat disturbingly dirty and much less citrus than you’d expect. Neroli, which is the steam distilled orange flower concentrate, if you want, captures the nice and shiny aspect of orange flowers. The absolute, which is an organic solvent based concentrate, captures the animalic, love potion side.

Maybe, in a sense, orange blossom absolute is the “male jasmine”. I turns on mating instincts and transforms the gentleman back to ape in about 30 seconds.

OK, maybe a bit exaggerated. It takes 60 seconds.

Like most flower extracts it is a middle, heart, note and doesn’t last too long on skin. To fix it and to prevent it entering into foully territory is one of the challenges when working with this real stuff. And you need to hide the indole a bit. Please, do not ask me why you find jasmine absolute in the formula, too. I guess it is for the ladies…