Tauer Perfumes

News Tagged ‘Paris’

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developing a sensibility for French historical perfumes

June 12th, 2014

hello, hello, hello!
I am sorry, but my plan to post here on my blog got a bit twisted due to little changes and me not really considering a couple of things: You know… a plan is always a plan and therefore prone not to work anyhow. Hence, after a great get away in Paris, visiting the really worth visiting van Gogh exhibition in the musée d’Orsay which by itself is worth visiting, in a city that is always worth visiting, independent of whether you hunt the city for perfume or not (I didn’t), I got home and got a little hospital timeout that was planned as such. You know: 5 min. and home you go. The 5 min got a bit longer, and 48 hours later I am scuffling from here to there, not on my knees though. But definitively slower.

As this blog is not a sickbay reporting station: A word on perfume in Paris. I did not hunt perfume as I sort of landed from a highly enthusiastic state of “let’s have a look at perfume!!!” there to total boredom within 1 minute. I visited a boutique as I saw the Tilleul by d’Orsay in their window, the Tilleul is one that I like and wanted to get it as a gift for a friend. The boutique owner, nicely and eloquently, started his prayer wheel and the following church service was like “here you find only the fragrances that were made in Paris centuries ago. Everything you see here is perfume art from about 200 years ago,blablabla….” And as much as I love the Tilleul and respect d’Orsay for their great fragrances that are modern and classic, I had to get out of there. D’Orsay was only one of many brands that was on the boutique’s shelf. I could smell the cold humid scent of muggy air, feel the insurmountability of centuries gone by, rotten perfumes rising out of their graves, in search for the pure perfume loving souls and their Euros. I think I am developing a “French historical perfumes” sensibility.

Here’s great news from the artist’s diary. While taking a day off, I purchased some decent water color and some decent brushes and suffer since then. Either too much or too little water, color or both and yes: Not easy. Although, when watching these training videos on how to do watercolors it looks super easy. Trust me: Creating perfumes is exactly the same. You get the colors and brushes and start painting, and even if the first strokes look perfect, the painting doesn’t. Funny side note: On the paper on which I test the mixed water colors I  have the brightest strokes. On my paintings, I don’t …

If I find time, I will try to paint today’s picture: My zucchini plant in bloom. Such a great color.

Another great news: I get/fetch my Sotto la Luna : gardenia filled flacons these days. Another step closer there. Next: Printing labels and the cards for the packaging.

 

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waking up in Paris

June 24th, 2013

One of the best ways discovering and learning more about cities, in my opinion, is jogging, in the morning, when the city awakes, its streets and corners still presenting the dust of the night, the trash still sitting in the shortening shadows of the sun rising, the homeless still sleeping, and the drunks of the night bumping into the busy bees that got up early to serve us coffee later at 9. I did so on Friday in Paris, as I woke up way before six; having done my mails, I decided to go for a jog, at 6.30, and I was amazed how quite Paris still is at this time around the gare de l’Est. Much more quite than I know it from other cities.

The jog was along the Canal St. Martin, starting there where it begins at rue de Faub. du Temple and ending somewhere out there, at the Parc depart. de la Bergère, and from there back along the canal and then through the city, in a circle, discovering a few streets and corners I haven’t seen yet. So that was good, and as always when jogging, there is plenty of time to think. I was thinking about fantastic raw materials that I discovered at the XI salon Matières Premières, where me and some friends wondered where the hell these wonderful materials are actually used in light of what we smell these days. And I was running away from the agitation of the next wave of zombie scents flooding the streets and perfumeries. Paris was quite a wake-up call for me, in a certain sense, and I need to get back to this point when my morning dizziness is gone.

Today’s picture shows you a Givaudan map of synthetic treasures; some of them I actually use, like Okoumal, or Sandalore (nice!) others I don’t. I am so glad that these days, we can use both, in qualities seen never before, synthetics and natural. The salon featured -of course- some synthetic highlights, but most of the suppliers were producers of natural extracts and wow!, there were so many fantastic goodies to smell there. Highlights are, just to mention a few: a Tasmanian blackcurrant bud absolute. A fantastic mimosa absolute, a drop dead rose oil (actually a combination of natural rose oil and other extracts, rendering the rose oil gentler, and bringing this all natural close to the scent of real rose petals) and a Lily enfleurage, and a vetiver, and and and. This was truly inspiring and motivating to move on and play more.

Today, I will play too, but not with scents but with the cellophane manual tool that was delivered while I was in Paris. I will do so while waiting for Fedex and trucks that pick up orders that I prepared in weekend and night shifts before leaving. I guess this day will see me going through a lot of cellophane with little results. As it says in the training manual for the tool: “The operator should at least spend 2 working days training on the machine…”

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under a blue sky, Tuberose uncertainties

June 18th, 2013

Today’s picture shows you the sky over Zurich, at 5.30 am, in a twisted way thanks to yesterday’s serious evaluation of the latest tuberose centered scent that I am working on since felt eternities. In reality, I started about a year ago. And am still not there where I need to be. I tested the last version and decided that it is not there yet, missing in longevity, and force maybe. At 5 I woke up and sort of felt what I had to try next. So I got up and took a picture of the sky that will see me fly through tomorrow, on my way to Paris, for a short, cheap trip. We are trying to safe money and hence the plane. Yep. Flying is cheaper than taking the train when not planning way in advance.

Paris will have me for two days, visiting friends, and a fair for raw materials. Fun! And important!

After 10 am, the peace was over, when I realized that I need to plan and pack a super urgent Fedex shipment, into my warehouse, though. But there was time enough to write down the new formula, mix it and put it into the shelf. It may rest in peace and mature now for a couple of days. I changed a lot: Simplified the core, extended the base, adding a few more base notes, and changing the proportions. The previous version, on skin, was nice for about 5 minutes. It would be the perfect duty free tuberose. Simply not good enough. Maybe as splash it might work.

OK. Time to pack and get the last minute things done before, yes , I know, I mentioned it before: Paris. 2 days without parcels and packs and more.

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Shipment date recommendations for the holidays

November 19th, 2012

This post brings you the recommended shipment deadlines for X-Mas gifts ordered in my online shop.

But first things first. It is only a few days ago since I was in Paris, and yet it feels like it happened in the last century. Almost. This alone tells me how fast time seems to go by the closer we come to the festivities and the end of the year. I  guess the felt time gone by  is somewhat proportional to the tasks accomplished in this time period. Maybe it is just me getting older. Anyhow. As it feels a long time ago already, I picked today’s picture and adjusted it real quick with an app on the iphone and uploaded it to share it with you.The picture shows part of the decorated window of the perfumery Marie-Antoinette, where the Loretta presentation took place (Place St. Catherine, Paris); to the left Tableau de Parfums and to the right my portrait, presenting roses and an old flacon, that I used originally to fill une rose chyprée.

I like this image because it reminds me of the little flacon and how fast things change. I tend to forget: It is a bit more than 7 years only since I presented my first scent. It is 2.5 years only since I presented the new pentagonal flacon. And , yes, wow!, I am looking forward to a new year, 2013, with new fragrances and a changed box and more. So definitely, WOW! Things change fast these days. For everybody, almost everywhere. Remember how you shopped for X-mas presents 15 years ago? I bet you did not do it through Amazon.com, or Luckyscent.com.

And to be honest, and in light of my impatient nature and my urge to move on: I like it that way. Let’s hurry into a bright future. 2012 is so yesterday already. …

Just in case you want to ask me: No, the little flacon will not come back, and right now I have no plan to introduce a lower volume flacon. Just a quick note, kind of in brackets: I read a comment in one of the blogs the other day, where there was a discussion why brands do not do more decant sizes, like 5 or 15 ml. Here’s why: Filling a 50ml  flacon or a 10 ml decant, packing it, labelling it, making shipment papers etc.  is all the same work. Thus, it does not pay off. Not really.

Anyhow, brackets closed. In this blog post, I actually wanted to mention the frightening fact that between January 1 2013 and now there are the holidays! We are approaching the holidays really fast. Frightening in the sense that I am not entirely ready yet. Are you?

Although, the truth is: I am half ready. I got all the raw materials to make this year’s special soap (rose….hmmmm!) and I started a batch job in the back of my mind to come up with a Christmas card, and a few other things I want to do for the holidays. The batch job is not excecuted to completion yet, but it is running. “Batch job”: I used this term quite frequently 20 years ago. It brings back memories of my days at the university in Zurich, where I had my first email account, on a VAX. It was a bit hasslesome to get into the server, and I used it mostly to get calculations done, some sort of genetic algorythms and search for similarities in genetic and protein databases. Anyhow, I sent my first email something like 23 years ago. And trust me: 23 years ago, you would not even dream of sending youtube videos links over the mail. At least me wasn’t dreaming this.

So, yes, X-mas ante portas, and with it lights and blingbling, and a lot of joy and dispair.Dispair because online placed orders arrive too late. We had a lot of communcation going forward and backward due to parcels on their way to somewhere.

So, yes, let’s use this post to announce it officially: If you want to buy presents for yourselves or someone else and you wish to see these fragrant gifts under the tree by December 24: Make sure to order early!
CENTRAL AND SOUTH EUROPE: by December 10 at the latest.
EASTERN EUROPE: By December 5 at the latest.
USA, FAR EAST, AUSTRALIA: by December 5 at the latest.
JAPAN: By December 10 at the latest.
SOUTH AMERICA: By November 25 at the latest.

Yes, shipment to some countries takes that long, especially the closer you come to the holidays. Have a great start into your new week! There are only 6 more to go before we hit 2013.

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Quo non had duce

November 16th, 2012

Antonio’s perfumery in Paris is called Marie-Antoinette, like the famous wife of Monsieur le Roi, Louis XVI, both decapitated, madame on October 16 1793. When she lost her head, she was call Ms. Capet, and had sort of lost most of her priviledges beforehand. She, like many others, were wiped away by a revolution, starting 1789, followed by quite a disaster in Europe. We tend to forget that revolutions normally come with bloody hands and mouth. And it is usually not the wise and gentle who surf the waves of the masses, inflamed by anger and hunger and ideas. Marie Antoinette lost her head, Europe went to war, has seen the  rise of Napoléon,  who -what irony!- became *empereur* later, and it continued to be a mess for quite a while. Actually, it was  really a disastrous time for Europe, for quite a while.  Imagine how shocking the events in France at the end of the 18th century must have been for the elites, the aristocrats. You hear from your cousin or friends in France that everybody was kicked out of their palaces, had to flee, hide like lepers, and quite often lost not only all their influence and money, but also their life.

Quite shocking, indeed. Revolutions come with a certain surprise element. You never know what you gonna get, until it’s there and then it is usually too late. For sure there was a need for a French revolution, as the elite kind of lost their minds before losing their heads. An irrational exuberance, an unseen and unpaid for extravagance of the elites, not realizing the power of new ideas and the misery of the masses, coupled with an enormous dept, people being hungry and without jobs, the elite proving its incompetence on a daily basis and a couple of other factors. I leave the search for similarities to today’s situation in some countries to my readers.

You cannot understand today’s Europe without knowing at least a bit about the French revolution. It changed the name of the game in Europe. So you see: Paris makes me think.

Paris is different. It really is. Today’s picture shows you a woman I have seen on my way to the bathroom in a Paris restaurant: I went to the bathroom  and on the wall, there was this lady. Amazing, isn’t it?

And Paris is chic. Chic and luxurious is not the same thing. Thus, contrary to the way of life of the queen and the king before the revolution, Antoni0′s shop “Marie-Antoinette” comes with a certain modesty: but the little shop gleams with hard to find scented treasures. I love this place. It is so different to many of the other supper luxurious places where everything is bling bling and gold and -yes: boring.  At Marie- Antoinette you find lovely perfumes and you find a super nice guy who will not tell you what to buy but he will tell you what’s behind a scent, and why you might like it. Usually, he is right when he pickes a scent for somebody. Quite an amazing talent!

It was there at Marie-Antoinette, and we celebrated Loretta’s appearance on Wednesday evening, with many perfume loving French fans and friends, and me speaking in French about the why and how of Tableau de Parfums. Aside from my troubles speaking French ( I miss the practice), it was a lovely evening and I think Loretta made a really nice first impression.

So that was nice. And I came back to Zurich with a lot of impressions and thoughts to follow.

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on my way to Paris

November 13th, 2012

Fragrant greetings from the TGV, on my way to Paris, gare de Lyon. This time, it is a really nice coach, all new, on two levels, and instead of the dark purple, the colors of the seats are sort of light blue. Much nicer!

The Lys du desert that I put on yesterday before going to bed still lingers on my arm and I am curious how long it will stay there.  It was quite a desert night with it. In the most pleasurable way.

I guess, while in Paris, I will wear either Loretta, to celebrate the moment, or the upcoming Noontide petals.  (comes in 2013)

We will see. First things first now: falling asleep while getting there.

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another word on lys du désert

November 12th, 2012

This morning, I picked the winner of last week’s draw, or rather random.org picked it. Thus, someone somewhere will open her email today or tomorrow and hopefully smile. I haven’t posted on the blog for a few days as I wanted the draw to get its well deserved attention and as I was super mega giga galactical busy. You get the idea.

Today sees another super…. busy day and then: Uff! I will sit tomorrow morning into a nice 2nd class seat, in a train, for 4 hours and will relax. Paris is on the agenda. Just a very short trip, but worth it: Antonio, lovely shopkeeper of Marie Antoinette , one of the loveliest and cuttest perfumery in Paris, will launch Loretta and I will bring some samples and meet and greet perfume lovers there. I am so looking forward to it. If you are in the region: Paris, Place du Marché St. Catherine, Marie Antoinette, around 6 pm, Wednesday, November 14.

There was some time last week, nevertheless, the think about perfumes and compositions and I had a look at the Lys du désert’s formula. It was a look at something that I had created a while ago, a look at things from a distance so to say. Quite interesting. It is a rather concise formula. Optimised, and in a sense, the different lines within the fragrance are clearly carved out. So yes, it is a little bit like a screen print, but colored, and every color is a line within the scent that tells part of the story. I remembered that I wanted to do it very right for Luckyscent: So I optimized the formula and tried to make it as complex as necessary and as optimal to produce as possible. The result: ingredients. Among them rose absolute, jasmine absolute, cedarwood, cistus ladaniferus extracts (two different). The rose balances the composition and adds a floral quality without the scent leaving its unisex territory. The jasmine is part of the desert lily heart, again without leaving the unisex trail. And the two cistus extracts are part of the dry amber chord that dominates the base. Ah…. and yes. There is bergamot, lots of it, to brighten and enlighten the top notes, and in order to add this hint of lush green.

I wish you a great start into your week.

Today’s picture: a picture taken in Joshua Tree, the way I see it. sometimes.

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retour de Paris

April 5th, 2012

So I am back from Paris, and can look back to an evening with Maccarons, champagne, wonderful people and a secret star: Miriam, the fragrance. In a sense it was the European launch of Tableau de Parfums. Miriam has arrived in Paris, now. I took a picture inside the shop, looking outside, and I find it so “French”. An old Citroen, champagne, perfume…

The event, which was absolutely lovely and brought me together with wonderful people who were all enthusiastic and passionate, took place at Marie-Antoinette. This is Antonio’s little paradise, a wonderful little cozy shop in the middle of the Marais which is a quarter in Paris worth exploring.

Here is a picture of Antonio right in front of his shop. He is the most charming guy imaginable.

 

Alors: A ne pas manquer sous aucun prétexte….

Now, I am getting ready for my meeting with my designer who supports me and endures me in my endless wondering about my packaging. I am looking forward to sitting together with Donovan Gregory, from the Designers Club, and designing my world.

 

Today’s picture shows you a TGV in the gare de Lyon. These trains are fast. And the new ones are really comfortable. It is actually better than flying.

 

 

on my way to Milan

March 30th, 2012

Fragrant greetings, today from the train to Milan (again), where I will stay for a day, sleeping in an affordable hotel, and trying not to get homesick. It has been a while since I slept for a couple of days in a row at home.
But I do not want to complain. In the end, it was me who decided when to go where. Next week, on Monday, you will see me in Paris(again), where I am doing a little, but nice!, event with Antonio to officially launch the fragrance Miriam in Paris at Marie-Antoinette. Probably one of the cosiest selective perfumeries in Paris.
But first Milan. I am so looking forward to visiting Esxence. We decided again not to exhibit, we = me and my Italian importer. I am too small and cannot afford to present my fragrances twice a year. Although we would have great news for Italy to present: Tableau de Parfums, with Miriam, is ante portas in Italy.
And talking Tableau. Yes, we did it. Together with you. We reached our kickstarter goal. I thank all of you who pledged and supported us by sharing and by spreading the news. So this is over now and I am very happy that it all worked out so nicely. It will be my job to actually make these soaps and fill the Dark Passage and Loretta purse sprays.
I wonder how many mails I will get in the coming weeks wherein folks ask for a Dark Passage sample or a purse spray, on exceptional basis because they heard about it or missed the campaign. I have not really come up with a plan there. I will probably come up with a page on my site where I say no. Thus, I can reply to these requests by simply sending a link. You would not believe how many mails I still get where perfume lovers ask for Orris, my limited edition fragrance created a couple of years ago…. and yes: just in case you wonder, no chance. Orris is gone.
After all these kickstarter posts, I would like to end this post with a little note on hyacinth. I have a few blooming right now in my little garden. After running and packing and jumping forth and back all day yesterday, I took a few minutes off, sitting next to the pink beauty.It was simply amazing how leathery this scent seemed to me. A sweet spicy green creamy leathery scent.

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visiting Paris

March 22nd, 2012

It is spring and the world looks different. More colorful, and warm and sunny. Wonderful. Soon, the world around me will also look different because I am on my way to Paris, where I will attend the big, BIG, official shop opening of Jovoy, THE niche store in Paris these days. I hope that I will meet a lot of perfume loving French there and I can’t actually wait to see the new shop. I visited and was shown the premises before Jovoy moved in and I can only guess how glorious it must look now.

Thus, this will be an all exciting trip. A short trip, though. I am back 48 hours later, and will have to continue there where I stopped yesterday: Bottling and packaging more Miriam, Tableau de Parfums.

Before leaving, I want to share a video with you.  Click here to view it on my vimeo channel. I got the chance to talk to Al, Streetscents Al. He told me how everything began and where he is heading. And he got the chance to smell Loretta, the second fragrance from Tableau de Parfums, scheduled for release in September /October 2012. A pre-release of Loretta is available as part of the Kickstarter campaign (hurry up, it ends March 29) supporting Brian Pera’s film ONLY CHILD.

Enjoy!