Tauer Perfumes

News Tagged ‘review’


Article in Fluxmagazine

June 5th, 2015

There was a great article in the Flux Magazine, featuring luxury fragrances, the transformation in the market, and why niche is winning shares in some market segments. The article featured Tauer Perfumes, and two three other brands and I recommend reading it, here.

This is seriously good press and nice.

The article follows a couple of lines of thought. I would pick up one of them. The issue of growth. This morning, in the newspaper, there was another article about Europe’s economy, falling into a trap of high unemployment, below potential growth, and a couple of other unfortunate no win holes. No doubt there: You can actually feel it and see it, and it is no good. (I leave the question aside whether the model of continuous growth is compatible with the real world and its limited resources) Looking at things through my little perfume focused reading help, I feel it is no good as, well, let’s face it: When it comes to niche perfumes, the US is not the only main market where things happen. It is Europe where a lot of the sales action happens. Just the number of doors for niche tells you this. Let’s be aware here, that designer brands are not niche. Your Bloomingdale’s sales of xyz does not count as niche purchase. Sorry. Of course, there are other regions where there is a potential for niche fragrances sales growth but let’s focus on Europe here.

Stagnation ahead.

What does this mean?

It means that the cake won’t get bigger in a time where new perfumes and brands are popping up on a weekly basis. This means, on average, less for everyone. And this means: Bye bye to many. Either you do better, become innovative, provide top notch quality, amazing service and be “real” or you’re out.

The “old model” (perfumer in Grasse, some $$ for packaging and bottle, 6 or more scents to start with, inspired by (pick your theme here: memories, cities,…) does not work anymore.

Is this frightening to me, running a business and having fun in this field? No, it isn’t. First, I do things in a different way. And then: I love the challenge. I think there is -irony ahead!- even an inspiration energy behind all this.

I will have to head to the factory real soon, waiting for a pick-up. With me some papers and bottles: The papers are for price calculations, and a couple of other business things. The bottles are for sniffing and playing. And believe it or not: The two of them go well together.


cheating and roses

January 20th, 2015

Today’s picture shows you what we did the other day in my painting class, we were all invited to cheat: The goal was to learn seeing behind the complexity of things. BY….

1. tracing the motive of a picture with a pencil through transparent paper. The original was a postcard size complex motif, like the Brooklyn bridge.

2. putting the original picture away, and -using the traces on transparent paper- sketching freehand the motif, reducing its complexity further, by looking for simple lines and shapes and forms and contrasts.

3. adding color and looking at the result.


I have my rules when it comes to painting. One top rule is: No tracing, but you always paint free hand, to train my eye hand brain coordination.

The same is, by the way, true for my way of creating perfumes. There are formulas that you can get, IFF, for instance, has demo formulas somewhere on their site. like this one here, for a gourmand accord, with 24% musk and 12 % Timbersilk, aka Iso E. Quote often, I get questions from perfume lovers who want to start composing, asking for formulas to learn. As tempting it is: I don’t think it is a good way of finding your way in and out in perfumery. Not good for your nose-brain coordination, and benumbing your imagination.

In the painting class, we only used the tracing as a trick to get around the complexity and learn to see through all the little cables and windows and complex patterns, learn to identify what matters and how to use it to compose a picture.

A smart trick.

I guess the same trick works in other fields. Like business, when it comes to complex marketing questions. Add a filter that blurs the data, that just lets the important stuff shine through, like “we make 50% of our turnover with one product” and move from there on. Or it might work in private life, or …

Thus, the bottomline of this post: Sometimes we are allowed to cheat. And maybe, maybe even looking at demo formulas in perfumery might be ok, just to see the bigger picture of how things are done.  Although I am not sure about that. The danger is imminent that you end up with a copy of a copy of what everybody else does. The same is true for using bases from industry, by the way, like rose bases where industry does the rose composition for you. Easy, but without little learning effect.

Talking about roses and in order to finish this all up: Here’s a link to a great piece of writing on Scenthurdle  about Andy’s roses, in comparison and from an interesting perspective, without going into any details: Like my rose perfumes traced through transparent paper. I really liked that piece of writing.


before I leave: Now Smell This read for you

October 17th, 2014

Before I will leave for Turin, leaving stormy Zurich, for hopefully sunny Turin, I have a read for you. Not too long, but interesting and nice, at it puts things into the right context: Please visit Robin’s Now Smell This blog (click here) and follow her thoughts on Gardenia sotto la luna. And feel free to share your thoughts there, not here.

Does she love it? No, not really super mega enthusiastically. But that’s ok. What I love about this particular review: It puts this fragrance of mine in the proper context.

I feel understood.  This feels good.

And now: Off for Turin. Talk to you soon again. Have a great weekend!



on fragrance being too subjective and other epic fails

January 17th, 2014

Today’ s picture shows you an illustration that I did with photoshop, emulating pencil and watercolor, having a closer look at my left hand, painting with the right hand,  while waiting until the time was right to make a phone call to the US, about trade mark protection. That actually fits with a link further down this post.  I am glad I did this illustration as there will be not much time to sketch today: Another pick-up day in the factory; so I will be down there, taking some “creative” work with me, like musing about notes that should be communicated with gardenia, the upcoming scent from the sotto la luna®  line. One more word about that in an instance.

I will sit in the factory with shorter hair, after a visit (finally!) at my super friendly, super competent and super young hair dresser. We were talking about hair loss, and I mentioned that it is no issue for me (anymore), that I got used to the idea of loosing my hair. Simple enough: Mirrors don’t lie. So my hair dressers tries to cheer me up, going like “oh, I totally love bold men. They look gorgeous, the problems is just old men with bold heads, like in their forties or fifties. ” Fail, total epic communication fail.

But when you are around on this planet for half a century, like I am, almost, then you know how to deal with communication fails >smile.

So, yes, words can make a difference, and I will use my time in the factory to fill some samples, maybe pack this or that perfume, making use of hands that -as the sketch shows- are in existance since 50 years and show some degenerative defects that ask for anti inflamation drugs. To be honest: I know the formula of my gardenia scent, but to communicate notes is not easy. I do not want to head into sweet and sickly territory, these “über” words in all aspects. It is all too subjective. And still, … we will see.

Ah, yes, I need to come up with these lines, and a bit more text as I have this GANTT file, where my design buddy has the task of coming up with the labels and visuals and at the same time I have to come up with the words and the two lines come together in the near future. Arrgh.

Words and perfume: They don’t go well together, for me.

Here’s a few more words that are worth reading. The first link points to Victoria’s blog, Bois de Jasmin, where  she writes about a topic that sounds more boring than it actually is: Copyright protection and court  decisions there, in France, on fragrances. One of the punch lines there, in court: FRAGRANCE IS TOO SUBJECTIVE TO BE CLEARLY DEFINED. Hallelujah!   It is worth your 5 minutes, and the following 10 minutes for a thorough read of the comments section. I do not want to bring that discussion to this post here, thus I invite you to comment there.

And then, there ‘s a lovely review over there, on Now Smell This, by Robin, about PHI-une rose de Kandahar. One of the aspects that I loved most about her review: How she came back to a scent that ended on the “not sure whether I like this” list. Here’s the thing: Quite often, love needs time. Love on first sight happens, but usually a fragrance like a person needs time.

Sometimes, I feel that we do not give us this time anymore. Be it perfumes or guys or whatever: maybe we don’t because the next guy is around the corner, and like the other guy he promises flowers and all the good stuff. But wait: The first guy, wasn’t there something special?



a Miriam review on Muse in Wooden Shoes

November 2nd, 2011

The first thing I read this morning was a review. Carol who runs the Muse in Wooden Shoes blog  posted a review on the scent Miriam,  and what a review! You find it here, following this link to her blog. She put the scent into the context of  Tauer and the movie Woman’s Picture by film maker Brian Pera. Her review ends with the words “Wearing Miriam feels bittersweet and emotional, tender and wrenching and beautiful. It smells like a memory of love to me, and I will cherish it.”

Miriam is a fragrance, that I created based on a fabric of emotions, pictures, scenes, reflections, all seen in the portrait “Miriam” of Woman’s Picture. It is a mirror of what I felt when watching and how I have seen this movie story that Brian tells us. Reading this review on the blog a Muse in Wooden Shoes, I feel very understood. This is a wonderful way to start a day.

I guess it won’t get better today. Thus, I stop writing here and make sure that I get those parcels out. Enjoy your day!



Pera’s universe

September 2nd, 2011

“But not in Pera’s universe”… Elena from PerfumeShrine posted a review, an introduction to Miriam and I invite you, my readers, to visit her blog and leave a comment (anything goes, just a hello). The reasons:

First , her review puts the fragrance into context.

Second, because she runs a draw and you might want to take your chance to win samples and be the first to smell Miriam. Thus, please follow this link to her post.

On another happy note: I visited the hairdresser today, getting all nice and shiny for Florence, and Pitti Fragranze. The result is as always….stunning. I look different, and smell like a gigantic peach thing. Not bad, though. On my way back, I thought in a couple of perfume reviews where the reviewers were comparing fragrances to the scents of shampoo and usually negative.  I am not sure. I feel there are a lot of wonderful shampoo scents out there. So I walked back and realized that making the fragrance for a shampoo might actually be a much bigger challenge than a perfume that you spray on skin.

The shampoo scent needs to be cheap, I mean: real cheap. And it needs to smell nice. I mean really nice. If I had to do a shampoo scent, I would have a hard time. I am glad I do not have to do it. I create my scents always without budget tag in my head. The sky is the limit, almost.

I wish you a lovely weekend. And I thank you all for following me and Brian on our journey through fragrant land and moving pictures.


on communication

January 4th, 2011

These days, as I have a lot of fragrances to pack, I have some time to think. Less time to write, unfortunately. While packing, I look into some phenomena that I find worth thinking about and I dare sharing one or two with you. I came to the conclusion that Facebook is boring and rather annoying. I am amazed about the amount of nothingness happening there. And I wonder how investors can spend so much money to be invested in it.  But then, the Golden Sachs boys did a few other odd investments the last few years…

I considered my facebook appearance an experiment and I am not sure whether it is a pleasant experience so far.I am considering changing my presence there to a simple fan page. To be decided….I feel that 2011 will be year where communication is goint to be king for me.

Next to communicate: I look closely into a few perfumes and I need to write a piece on one of them. You would not believe how difficult this is, especially if the perfume is a top notch 5 stars fragrance.

Finally, I start thinking about how to communicate on the Carillon pour un ange, a fragrance that will start selling in many perfumeries this spring. By the way: you find a lovely recent review on the Olfactoriatravels blog. Right now, it is exclusively sold by Luckyscent and in my shop. In March-May 2011 it will be available as part of the HOMMAGES Line. I want to create some PR for this fragrance. Difficult!

It is amazing how important words are when dealing with perfumes.



September 9th, 2010

And off we go for a few days.  Pitti and Florence: We are almost there!

In the mean time, enjoy Persolaise’s review of UNE ROSE VERMEILLE by clicking here to get to Persolaise.com.

I feel like this review is important. And I feel like I need to talk a bit on the Rose vermeille in the coming weeks.

I will be back next week, with my first newsletter edition (please consider and do not forget to subscribe) ,  more facts on my new babes in town, pictures  and hopefully juicy stories, on perfumery and what happens in the large world of fragrances.


creative day

September 3rd, 2010

Uff. It is Friday, this week’s big shipment is ready in front of the house for pick-up by Schenker, and I can worry about other things, such as my hair or creation of new perfumes. I decided that Friday afternoon will be my “creative day”, translating into at least 4 hours working on fragrances.

Otherwise, if not scheduling it like that: No chance. Too much going on….But first things first: Newsletter final texts, pictures for the shop. I will hit the essential oils in the afternoon before hitting downtown.

Today’s creative challenge: Ambreine. I get mine from Biolandes in France. It is a natural substance, isolated in a few steps from Cistus ladaniferus, to be precise: solvent extraction of  the concrète. It is not easy to work with, as it is -in all its beauty- very quickly dominating an entire composition. I want to use it in a mix where I just need its dry woody incense effect, without the ambergris part. And it has a harsh side.  Let us see how we can soften it. I guess I will bring in some green contrast. We will see.

I feel, perfumery is very much about light and darkness, about contrasts, about effects…I need to think a bit more on contrasts in perfumery.

And with this I wish you a great weekend, and here is your reading recommendation for it:
Open Letters Monthly, on “difficult pleasure”, featuring among other things Lonestar Memories. Enjoy!

(picture of today: A cut out from a larger photo taken last weekend, stones and water in sunlight)


turning on mating instincts

August 18th, 2010

From Ape to Gentleman has a nice clipping and reviews on Tauer. Thus, I am doing it for the second time this week: Enjoy Chris’ writing on Tauer… by clicking here you get to the “Ape to Gentleman” page.

A great name for a website: Ape to Gentleman…

Now, a few lines on the EAU D’ÉPICES…today is the second day in a row with EAU D’ÉPICES (wearing it over night). This perfume  features as one (key) ingredient: Orange blossom, from Egypt. I am using the orange blossom absolute. Maybe you have never smelled this ingredient in its pure form: It is like sniffing the flower, but with the natural indole content pumped up, concentrated, with the woody and natural musk lines amplified. Actually, pure orange blossom absolute is somewhat disturbingly dirty and much less citrus than you’d expect. Neroli, which is the steam distilled orange flower concentrate, if you want, captures the nice and shiny aspect of orange flowers. The absolute, which is an organic solvent based concentrate, captures the animalic, love potion side.

Maybe, in a sense, orange blossom absolute is the “male jasmine”. I turns on mating instincts and transforms the gentleman back to ape in about 30 seconds.

OK, maybe a bit exaggerated. It takes 60 seconds.

Like most flower extracts it is a middle, heart, note and doesn’t last too long on skin. To fix it and to prevent it entering into foully territory is one of the challenges when working with this real stuff. And you need to hide the indole a bit. Please, do not ask me why you find jasmine absolute in the formula, too. I guess it is for the ladies…