Tauer Perfumes
rosepetals

shifting

August 30th, 2011

It is almost September. The roses are still in bloom but you can feel how they bring out the last buds for this year. The sun is changing its course, the evening light breaks out in yellow colors and the shape of things says: Autumn. The temperatures, the light, the perspective: All is shifting. Usually, the autumn brings a lot of perfume ideas and looking into my excel, where I store all formulas and experiments, even the very ugly ones, then this excel tells me that late autumn is the most creative part of the year.

Do not ask me why.

The excel file mentioned above, is on some sheets uncharted territory and fun experiments, on some sheets a walk around always the same block without moving much, and on some sheets a chamber of horror. Experiments that fail and did not survive the first week in the experimental bottles. I mix all my experiments to a virtual equivalent of 1000 units. These 1000 units translate into 12.5 gr/ml mixtures. Diluted this gives about 50-100 diluted fragrance. Thus, in my mixture you find from 1 virtual unit (12. 5 mgr/microliter) to a few hundred of overdosed components everything. The base of 1000 units helps to compare formulas. It is easier because everything you add in a mixture is always a part of 1000. Most of the 30 ml flacons with these mixtures do not survive, though. Especially when iterating around the final hurdles, these mixtures will -once the perfume is considered finished- all be incinerated. They rest in peace and turned into what all matter is: Stardust.  But the formulas stay in Excel, as I do not through any of them. They just sit there and one day, when excel does not exist anymore, they will be gone, too.

Thus, the rose petals are falling in late summer. But they are still very fragrant. And I come back to last weeks musing on roses, and roses for Monsieur. There is one formula for this in the excel, yet. But it is not mixed, yet. This mixture is still breeding in my head. And -no offense- so far the recommendations “dark, vetiver, nasty, not ugly” , well, somehow it did not make “click” in my head. Thus, I continue adding notes in my brain and play with the formula in the excel. Patience, dear readers.  Well, maybe I do not see “Monsieur” yet.

I guess I need to look at the rose seriously as it starts to bother me; this translates into looking at Monsieur a little bit more in detail. Monsieur = ?

But first things first: Today sees us doing a lot of tables in another excel file. Pack lists.Price lists. One day, I will need the list listing the lists.

Until we are there: Enjoy the rose petals, scanned yesterday, picked fresh from a fainting rose.

 

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6 Responses to “shifting”

  1. susan says:

    I pictures a mistachioed man of the 19th century, a bourgeouis man who lurks and explores the slums of London or Paris… that’s my image of your dark rose pour monsieur!

  2. hotlanta linda says:

    Maybe a Monsieur who is “Puttin` On The Ritz“!! ;-)

  3. Sugandaraja says:

    I personally think tobacco meets rose would be lovely; the two notes smell great together yet it hasn’t been done yet, as far as I know.

    Lavender is a classic pour homme note going all the way back to Fougere Royale, yet I can’t think of a memorable lavender-rose: maybe that’s worth exploring?

    I think rose plus dry, peppery woods has been done quite to death of late ( my favorite rendition is Giacobetti’s Elixir for Penhaglion’s; it smells like birch logs on a fire ), but it’s certainly homme-y enough.

    Just putting forth ideas. I have no idea if audience feedback like this is useful for a perfumer, but I look forward to the result of this project in any case!

  4. Andy says:

    Oh, I see Susan,
    that is almost a London Noir image of monsieur rose.
    :-)

  5. Andy says:

    Greetings, Hotlanta Linda
    Puttin on the Ritz, who ‘d thought about that! :-)

  6. Andy says:

    Greetings Sugandaraja
    actually, I find these exchanges very helpful, they do not also provide ideas, but the also give me an insight into how my perfume loving friends and fans think and feel about notes.
    I feel, for instance, that rose and Lavender fit wonderfully together, they do in nature and they do in a flacon :-)

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