making ofscents

spicy post

Before we address some of the TECHNICAL DETAILS and the WHY: Here’s the factual list of spices in EAU D’ÉPICES:

Cardamom, coriander, clove  and cinnamon bark essential oil. Lemongrass, which is also on the ingredient’s list, is not what I would consider a spice. And it fulfills a different role, too.

As I am using synthetics and naturals: Some of the spices are pumped up…Coriander is pumped up with a bit of Linalool; this molecule is present in coriander essential oil anyhow at about 60-80% and by adding a bit of it directly you pronounce the coriander note.  It extends the woody line of coriander, softens it a bit and leads over to flowers, like giving a hand to the flowers and pointing in the direction of the woods with the other hand.

The cinnamon bark essential oil is naturally mostly cinnamaldehyde ( about 60%), with some eugenol (about 5-10%) and cinnamylalcohol. These are all IFRA and EU Cosmetic law regulated substances. The limiting factor is cinnamaldehyde which is a dermal sensitizer, thus a molecule to be careful with. IFRA limits of cinnamaldehyde are 0.05% in the final mix. We are in EAU D’ÉPICES at 0.045%, thus making use of it at almost max. concentration. Here we have an example for the effects of regulation: I do not produce fragrances with higher cinnamon bark concentrations. The cinnamon essential oil is pumped up with cinnamylalcohol and a molecule called linalylcinnamate, which acts like an eye shadow, making the cinnamon bigger and a bit brighter.

Why spices? Because the thing is called Eau d’épices. In this scent the spices are very dominant and present. The spices are together one of the main axis of this particular perfume. They are like an entire book volume of about 4 volumes being: Spices, Flowers, Incense, Woods.

On a more general base: I use a lot of spices in my scents because spices do the same thing like aldehydes. When used in small amounts they amplify other notes, set accents and bring in light. A hint of cinnamon bark lifts a rose bouquet, for instance, and makes the rose shine and last. In a sense, spices are magnifying glasses.

The picture shows you a mix of spices in a pan that I use when making my own curry from scratch.

And do not forget: if you want to win an Eau d’épices: comment over there (click here).